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Messages - gearmaker.org

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1
Workspace, tools, machinery, and manufacturing / Bartacker jigs
« on: October 25, 2018, 11:49:00 AM »
I have made a few jigs for my bartacker. they are cut in 3mm acrylics





2
Aaaaaaand....I just ordered a refurbished Juki 2210n-7 with a 90*/right angle binder attachment, from Nick-O-Sew.

 The numbers just kept working out in terms of “if I spend $500 more, that will add X feature/benefit” till I was all the way to my dream machine anyways. Shipping was super cheap.

3
Here's a chart with bobbin style/dimensions. You can measure yours and look for a match, then shop for that style.

-DC

http://hensewfiles.com/General%20Information/Bobbin%20Selection%20Information.pdf

4
Here's how I built a laser for my Brother KE430F bartacker machine. Great tip from StonePhotoGear and Gear Dynamics! It really speeds up the process of "aiming" the material in the work clamp.

The laser is held in a cooling block / movable clamp combination and connected to the machine on the eye-protection bar. It's a pretty rigid construction, it won't move by itself. It can easily handle the vibrations of the machine.
I don't know how long the laser light itself will hold, just had it for a couple of weeks. It doesn't get hot at all, so I hope it will stay with me :)

If you have a stable power supply, you might not even need the current driver. Not sure. I've read that lasers need a supersteady voltage and current.

I got all parts from ebay, except for a 5 volts wall power adapter, which I already had.
Make sure you get the crosshair laser lense. They also sell single lines, dots etc.

Total costs are something like 10-15 euros, depending on which power adapter you use. The assembly is really easy, 1 hour of work!


Here we go:

-Solder the output + and - of the power adapter to the input of the current driver. The current driver is really small so I opened up the power adapter housing and put it in there, wrapped in some duct tape.

-Solder the output + and - of the current driver to the laser + and -. You could also use a DC jack & plug.

-Test the laser. You can focus the laser beam by turning the end cap.

-Take the round baseplate of the laser mount.
-Screw the cooling block on the laser mount.
-Put the laser in the cooling block. I put some teflon tape over the laser focus, to make it tight.

-Drill and tap a hole AT THE RIGHT SPOT on the eye-protection bar of the bartacking machine. Make sure you tap with the size of thread of the laser mount. Or else connect with some more nuts. Check beforehand where to drill, the whole thing needs to be able to make the right angles etc. I wanted to laser to be right above the needle position or as much as possible, so I had to move the eye protection glass down one hole on the holding bar.

-My wall adapter had a convenient integrated on/off switch so i mounted it next to the on/off switch of the bartacker machine, under the table.

-Connect and tighten all parts, focus the laser and you're done!


Material Sourcing:

Tools needed:

-soldering iron and soldering lead
-some shrink tube or electrical tape
-some thin double electrical wire
-1/4" UNC 24 TPI (or 20 TPI??) thread tap

Parts from ebay: (I've put the descriptions and pics below, so the links don't expire)

-Aluminum Radiator Heatsink 22x27x46mm For 12mm Laser Module With Screws Silver
-Adjustable Red 5mW 650nm Cross Laser Module Focus Laser Head Industrial Grade
-650nm 532nm 780nm 808nm 980nm Laser Diode LD Drive Driver Current Adjustable
-360 Degree Clamp Base Stand Mount Holder For 12mm Laser Module Pointer Torch

You also need a 3-5 volts wall powered adapter.

Hope it helps!











5
The office / Re: Thermal printer for shipping labels
« on: August 23, 2016, 10:59:27 PM »
Just a little update on the thermal printer, this thing has quickly became a key piece of equipment in my operation. Which means if it broke tomorrow, I wouldn't think twice about buying another one.
I ship through PayPal, and have one computer set up to this printer, then I use my IPad to print packing lists on a standard wireless printer, this thing will save money on printing since it doesn't use ink.
I highly recommend picking up one of these printers if you ship more than a few boxes a day.
Below is a picture of packaging prep for my my busiest shipping day, Monday and I would guess that this thing saves me two minutes per package when you take into account all the work of a print, cutting and taping of a standard printed label.
Enjoy, Scott

6
Pouches / M4 mag pouch
« on: March 20, 2016, 11:03:03 AM »
First try at a M4 single mag pouch. It turned out ok but could be better.

7
Workspace, tools, machinery, and manufacturing / Re: Fabric Cutters
« on: March 13, 2016, 05:30:00 PM »
So I ended up getting a Mercury 8 inch straight blade cutter. Got it super cheap brand new so worth a shot I thought.



Did a cut of 12 Layers of 600d PVC coated polyester. Went okay for a first go I think. Had a bit of trouble pushing the machine round, not sure if I was getting caught on staples or something but meant it lightly fused together in a few places. All the pieces turned out usable which is good.  Think It would be better doing more layers next time.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

8
Platforms / VITIAZ LBE 1-t gen
« on: January 31, 2016, 06:31:30 AM »
The first generation used in the units of infantry, special forces and airborne troops of Ukraine.














9
Platforms / VITIAZ LBE 2-d gen
« on: January 31, 2016, 06:30:50 AM »
My first shot.  ;)

This second generation of our LBE, which is made on the basis of experience with the first generation of the VITIAZ (KNIGHT), which was used in the war with the separatists in eastern Ukraine. The first generation used in the units of infantry, special forces and airborne troops of Ukraine.

Pouches attached to the hard belt. There are four versions of the LBE. They differ in a set of components.

VITIAZ AK (LBE + 2 ammo pouches (AK magazines, hand grenades, pop flares)).











VITIAZ AK-SB (LBE + 2 ammo pouches (AK magazines, hand grenades, pop flares) + butt pack).











VITIAZ AK-SB-BP (LBE + 2 ammo pouches (AK magazines, hand grenades, pop flares) + butt pack + 2 cargo pouches).











VITIAZ RAID (LBE + 2 ammo pouches (AK magazines, hand grenades, pop flares) + butt pack + 2 cargo pouches + sustainment pack).









10
Pouches / Counterweight Pouch with Elastic Cyalume holders
« on: January 14, 2016, 10:24:24 AM »





11
Pouches / MTP Fanny Pack
« on: January 02, 2016, 07:12:11 AM »
MTP Fanny Pack

The front pocket is made out of Multicam 4-Way Stretch Alpha Fabric.




12
Packs and bags / Street Hiker, the big boy - our first big backpack
« on: December 25, 2015, 10:17:53 AM »
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to everyone!

BOGear Dave encouraged me to show our (LINE - Little Needle - my wife and me) first bigger size backpack to you guys.

Here is the entire gallery.



This is a very much hybrid backpack in terms of the components we used to build it.

  • The externals are: 600Dx300D PTP (polyester with PVC backing) and 100% cotton, printed canvas from IKEA. For the canvas we figured out a beeswax + paraffin + linseed oil waterproofing method.
  • The internal lining is a funny story also: one or two british DPM overtrousers were destroyed to get the gore-tex fabric! :D
  • The webbing is a nylon webbing from this Aliexpress seller.
  • The zipper is commercial grade only, but worked fine for this project.
  • We used AMANDA GABOR, bonded nylon thread from this manufacturer.
  • Machinery: 30 years old Textima Altin needle transport, industrial, lockstitch & 50 years old (?) PFAFF 360 household for the zig-zag

Of course we would like to leave behind fabrics like PTP and start using Cordura, but so far we were not brave enough to spend a huge amount on money purchasing it from abroad (most likely from the US). Also we always argue about the color(s) to be purchased. :D

Looking forward for your feedback!

Thank you,
Zsuzsa and Viktor





13
Platforms / Patrolling Rig V2
« on: December 22, 2015, 04:48:05 PM »
This is the latest version of our Patrolling Rig. The overall layout is roughly the same as the previous version, but there are some notable differences that I wanted to show.

The harness has had a major overhaul. It went right back to the drawing board in order to figure out the optimal size and shape that would allow proper contouring of the suspension straps over the body. The shoulder pads are 3" wide and smoothly integrate with the back panel. The back panel has remained narrow (7" wide) and drops down from the front straps between the shoulder blades, allowing for maximum mobility. The front and rear adjustment straps have been shifted slightly to allow an even adjustment scheme, meaning you can apply the same adjustment length to all four points without worry of the harness canting forward or backward. Obviously the other major change is the use of binding tape which allows for a stonger assembly method. Inside, it is still 1/8" closed cell foam, laminated to the inside layer of Cordura (this may change to 420D pack cloth). On top of the foam, still inside, is a reinforcing plastic mesh that is only used in certain areas.

The main panels have remained relatively unchanged except that the fixed harness attachment point buckles are all ITW Waterbury steel. These are lower profile and much stronger than the acetal ones, not that that has ever been an issue with the 1.5" Triglide. The rear adjustment strap has been shifted back to the bottom, so the rig can be worn higher and the strap will ride in the lower back (or just below your rear plate). The previous version had the strap in the centre, in an effort to balance the support, but with the addition of the panel reenforcing, it was no longer required.




14
Introductions / (also) Hello from Australia
« on: October 23, 2015, 10:06:51 PM »
G'day,

My name is Michael and I'm also (like many people here, from a cursory glance of this subforum!  :P) from Australia.

In 2013 (my last year of high school) and beginning of 2014 I had a idea for some products based on my role as a volunteer firefighter in Australia. After a lot of hunting, I finally met Dave from BOGear and he was an awesome help at getting the Frontline Pack up and running. (Seriously, that mans knowledge of making gear and running shop in Australian market is unbelievable!)

Since then, The Forge Co (www.theforgeco.com) has been run from my room and manufactured by Dave and his crew to a great standard. I've learned a lot and have a lot of ideas for The Forge Co. in coming times. Bags are the current plan of action, but in the future other equipment such as rigs/holsters, organisers and one day even clothing are things that could do with some marked improvement!

As a full time uni student both funds and time is limited, and as such I have not yet been able to stitch any of my own gear personally with all my spare time that isn't eaten up by Uni/life going in to the background of the business. I'm hoping to change this in coming times - not with aspirations of being able to personally manufacturer stuff but just being good enough to construct rough prototypes and proof of concept work, as well as have some fun with it.

So yeah, hi!

15
Tutorials and techniques / Re: Retail packaging
« on: October 08, 2015, 02:29:04 PM »
Here's another example of a packaged up chest rig with a 2mil bag. If you squish all the air out, it'll help hold the product in a desired shape so you can fit more items into a smaller box.


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