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Messages - thewolf

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1
Service exchange / WTF cut and sew
« on: January 11, 2019, 09:46:28 AM »
WTF laser cut and sew products to your specifications using our stocked, USA made, Berry compliant, solution dyed, milspec fabrics in ranger green, black, coyote brown, and Multicam.

Specialties:

    -OEM, ODM, and contract sewing; short (QTY 10 per color per style) to long runs
    -Milspec printed tags and apparel care labels
    -Warehouse & dropship your products with a legal, fictitious address to conceal origin
    -White background product photography w/optional props and models
    -Rapid CAD, patternmaking, BOM, TDP, etc and prototyping and development
    -Contract laser cutting up to 66" x 98"
    -Laminating of almost anything to almost anything
    -Reducing costs by ensuring proper execution the first time
    -Self contained operations;  Our costing, design, cutting, sewing, marketing, photography, warehousing, and logistics are under one climate controlled roof.

Purchasing options:

    -Individual and blanket purchase orders
    -IMPAC, GPCs, government purchasing cards, discretionary funds
    -Wire transfer, bank drafts, major credit and debit cards via website checkout

Freight options:

    -Common carrier, LTL, trailer, and container freight options
    -Palletized and custom crated freight on carrier of choice or best rate
    -All shipments are offered FCA Phoenix, AZ, USA

A history of performance:

    -WTF have successfully delivered hundreds of thousands of good parts over more than 13 years of business.
    -WTF have constantly introduced materials, technologies, and processes at an affordable price for integration by other manufacturers.
    -WTF have been recognized over the years by notable industry publications.

Sustainability & continuity:

    -A pricing model to pay above average talent an above average wage is the foundation of this company.  Good pay increases employee morale and product quality.  Good pay reduces turnover, brain drain, and associated costs with training new labor.  The employee benefits from good pay.  The enthusiast, patrolman, and serviceman benefit from a well compensated employee with financial motivation to produce a good part.  WTF ultimately benefit from an employee with good pay.  We take pride in taking care of the employee who take care of your parts.  In the War On Wages; Just Say No to prison labor, slave labor, and undercompensated labor in developed and developing nations.

    -Self contained operations;  Our costing, design, cutting, and sewing operations are on site and under one roof.  This significantly reduces time and cost associated with product development.

    -A flexible workforce;  Maintaining a flexible pool of qualified, trained labor enables us to be responsive and accommodating to our employees' changing scheduling needs.  Moreover, we can scale for production capacity demand as necessary without major interruption to daily operations.

    -All manufacturing and warehouse space is air conditioned and heated year round for employee comfort and focus on your products.  WTF constantly update equipment with the latest, ergonomic, and human friendly options.  We focus on reducing employee fatigue so they may better concentrate on producing a good part.

   -Manufacturing operations are in Phoenix, Arizona far from natural disaster and political and economic instability.  Arizona's infrastructure is new and well managed with reliable roads, airports, power, water, and fiber.  Arizona's stable, relatively mild weather allows for three shift, 7 day a week operations year round as necessary.  When seasonal or unexpected natural disasters paralyze operations in other regions, we're producing.

    -A financially responsible ownership;  We're much more interested in building a long term revenue generating apparatus than refinancing real estate and buying toys.  We live modestly, drive modestly, and minimize participation in high risk activities.
    We spend as much time researching legal professionals as we do our processes and machinery.  We retain these professionals.  We listen to them.  A proactive legal team ensure compliance with applicable laws and regulations to ensure uninterrupted daily operations.

WTF are a complete conversion, manufacturing, and logistical solution for your gear designs.  We can consistently deliver parts to your specifications and destinations.

NDAs are accepted electronically in PDF form from your counsel's email address for inspection and evaluation with a $250 inspection and evaluation fee.  The fee is credited to your first order.  Working with so many designers and manufacturers often results in receiving similar requests from multiple customers, convergent evolution, and similar circumstances.  NDAs, non comps, etc, are typically too vague and potentially disruptive to our business as an agreement with one party could preclude us from doing business with another.  If you have an adversarial, suspicious, xenophobic, or similar mindset toward vendors please look elsewhere.

Our OEM services exist to create a sustainable income for our employees, your brand, and WTF.  It's in our best interest to take excellent care of our customers.  Backdooring parts and otherwise alienating customers is not a sustainable business model.  WTF make specialized materials and manufacturing processes affordable and readily available to those who may be otherwise unable to access them.  Moreover, we have experience with a vast width and breadth of materials and their respective applications within and beyond the textiles realm.

There is an astonishing collection of high performance machinery and talent within our operation.  We like to keep our machinery producing and our talent engaged.  Whether revenue is generated through our brand or yours is irrelevant to us.


 

 

2
Packs and bags / Proton Pack - Sling Messenger Bag
« on: October 29, 2018, 08:04:20 AM »
Adapted my pattern for a smaller waist/slingpack and elongated the body and widend it by an inch. I am digging it!

1680D nylon with 420 packcloth (teal) interior.






3
Packs and bags / Backpack #5 A-atacs ix unstructured.
« on: July 30, 2018, 02:14:29 PM »
Im doing better with sewing ribbon. And I put more effort into the shoulder straps - curved rather than straight. It does look better that way.  Only problem with this bag is I screwed up the hidden zipper-

https://tarsiertactical.wordpress.com/2018/07/29/180729-pack-5/

4
Everything else / Re: toiletry / shave kit
« on: February 06, 2018, 10:00:45 AM »
Just took guick photo of what Iīve made for personal use. Good project to try different techniques if you have time...






5
Packs and bags / Squishímups: Compression Panel Day Pack
« on: December 03, 2017, 11:53:25 AM »


My new compression panel day pack, the Squishímups.
(And just to give you a sense of the size, Iím 203 cm (6'7") and 113 kg (250 lbs). Yes, I make a 130 lb. Great Dane look small.)

Iíve tried a few approaches to this idea, and they all fell a bit short. But Iím certain this will be the solution! I think. Maybe...

The idea is to have a detachable day pack that I would have with me on a two hour hike or a two week canoe trip.
There are things that are necessary for both Ė what changes usually is insulation, shelter, food, etc., on longer trips and time of year.
I want to have a way to carry the necessities; water, means to purify it, first aid kit, rain protection, some insulation, a day of food, etc.

Besides being able to carry it as a stand alone day pack (with or without a waist belt, and with a frame sheet, aluminum stays, or both, or none) or have it attached to a frame (Kifaru or the one Iíll eventually build),
itíll serve as a compression panel. Between the Squishímups and the frame I can carry a no-frills pack sack (the next thing Iíll make), a duffel bag, a dry bag, a barrel, a Pelican case, a rifle drag bag, etc., etc.

The difference between some of my other attempts, is to have a pack not very deep, but wide and tall.
Keeping the depth of it down helps prevent the center of gravity from being put too far out.
The dimensions are 60 cm (23") x 33 cm (13") 10 cm x (4").

Using some very complimicalated mathematics*, I derived at a figure of this being about a 37 liter pack, or approximately 2250 cubic inches.

*( C = W + D x 2 ų π ų 2 = R
π x R≤ x H = V )


Any of you at all in the know, will automatically recognize that the belt and the way itís attached, and really the whole suspension, is pretty much my take on the Kifaru Omni system.
Iíve been using it for a decade, it works very well - so why re-invent the wheel as far as that went. Some ideas for the belt were also nicked from the Hill People Gear Prairie Belt.)
This is to a large degree a larger E&E with an Omni suspension.





Some closeups of the belt. I changed the Delta Straps a little by adding removable ladder locks. In Kifaruís the webbing is sewn into the belt.
I wanted to be able to have this as a stand alone belt if need be, and wanted to be able to remove them altogether. (The HPG belt does something similar.)
I also added four tabs along the top so that I could attach suspenders.
The other things I did was attach Eva-Zote foam and spacer mesh to the belt (as well as two strips along the back) both for padding and - hopefully - a bit of comfort on hot days.



Another view of the belt with the ladder locks removed and the suspender tabs more visible.
The other thing I did was use a buckle arrangement similar to the HPG Prairie Belt.



The back, showing the inside and outside. The 2" straps at the top go all the way to the bottom, and serves as a carry handle.

The back, showing the inside and outside. Inside I put 4, Ĺ" strips of webbing on both the front and the back,
so that I could hold things in place with bunjee cords and cord locks.
Inside is also a slot for an HDPE frame sheet and you can just see the 2" slot pockets for aluminum stays. I can use one or the other, or both, or none.



Bottom. Bit hard to tell, but itís an irregular hexagon.
One piece of gear that I absolutely wanted to use was my MSR Titan Kettle Ė which was a bit bigger than the depth I had envisioned for this.
I shaped the pack so that only the bottom part I would put it in was sized to accommodate it. The rest tapers away to be as slim as possible.



Sides showing the water bottle holders (corsets so that any size bottle can be accommodated), compression straps, and the daisy chain riding up the sides and over the top.


Top, again showing the daisy chain and the compression straps, as well as carrying handle (the straps go all the way along the back to the bottom).



Trekking pole holders on the front. A strip of Ĺ" webbing, sewn to be 2 channels, with bunjee cord and a cord lock.


The straps that will attach the compression pack to the frame.




Some closeups.

[​img]https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_xaB3aSVgf4/WiQM3HXAiKI/AAAAAAAAS6M/rD74-nXtozQ3FyHQQm3QWKcYkBKZYWmUQCLcBGAs/s1600/Squish%25E2%2580%2599mupsWaterBottleHolder1Small.jpg[/img]

​​​Closer look at the water bottle holders. I wanted to be able to accommodate different sized bottle​s​ if need be.
I did the bottom so there is a hinge, to better fit either Kleen Kanteens or the Classic 1 liter Nalgenes. And on the bottom by the seam you can see the two holes I put for the cord to emerge from.




​​​The Kifaru E&E and the Squishímups side by side. I got the E&E a decade ago for the purpose I outlined earlier.
Just found it too small for my needs. I also found the fact that I can only attach it via the sides meant it always sags down.​

​​

​The Ĺ" strips of webbing and how things are held in place with bunjee cords and cord locks.
If it was a top opening pack I could just shove things down inside. Given that it opens all the way up, I wanted to makes sure everything stayed put when I opened it.


To give a description of whatís all here:
Starting top left, first aid kit (Iím going to make one specifically to fit along the width along the top, and have it be a tear-away),
below that a pouch with some miscellaneous stuff - repair kit, toiletry kit, headlamp, gaiters.
To the right of that, at the top, an inflatable seat pad, below that a ground sheet (foot print from a 1 person MEC tent) below that a bag with approximately a days worth of food.
To the right of that a bag with a sweater, gloves, socks, toque and buff, all in merino wool.
To the right of that at the top, a Swiss mesh scarf.
About a meter square, itís one if those items I could in theory live without, but itís so versatile it always comes along and I always find a use for it.
As a scarf, I drape it over or wrap it around my head when I sleep, Iíve rigged it up as a sun shade, it can serve as camouflage, collect leaves for a debris shelter,
Iíve strung it up as a place to put gear so itís off the ground - the uses are endless.
Below that is a cozy that fits a home made dehydrated meal and inside of it is my trusty MSR Titan kettle
and LMF cup with a homemade stove and wind screen and fuel bottles and lighter.
Below that is an Integral Tactical silnylon poncho. Thin and light, it serves as both wearable rain protection and shelter.

Anyway, my confident prognostication that this will be THE solution ... fell a bit short. Itís very close, but not quite. Itís really comfortable, but then again, itís an Omni suspension, so it would be.

My biggest gripe is the water bottle carriers. The bunjee cord adjustment system mainly.
The next go round will be attached in the seam at the bottom, and via SRB at the top, and instead of a cord lattice, it will be webbing straps adjustable via Velcro.

The daisy chain up the sides and top will be dispensed with, since its main purpose was for the bottle cord lattice to weave through.
And my initial thought was maybe use as an attachment point for something. Would rather dispense with the weight.

Also the way the compression straps attach to the pack itself when not on the main frame, will change. I had attachment points all the way up the sides, top and bottom.
Instead there will only be tabs specifically for those straps to connect to. Again, unnecessary weight for, maybe I might attach something to it some time.

The way the compression webbing attaches will be different as well. Part of my original design was to have a mesh panel that I could use to stick a wet rain jacket or tarp under.
Then it hit me. Duh. Why not just use those compression straps for that purpose. The next iteration will do away with the metal tri-glide / loop-loc attachment, have it be one piece and route through webbing tabs.
I can loosen it, stick what I need under it and cinch it tight. Basically, the ​​Kifaru Cargo Net​​.
Slightly different, but essentially, as soon as itís no longer sewn to the pack, thatís what it became.

Another idea that seemed good at first, but had to actually use for a while to realize the shortcomings of,
are the trekking pole holders on the front. The next iteration will have them be attached to the main frame instead.

It will also be just a pocket, rather than a full on pack. Rather than a built in suspension, Iíll simply attach it to the main frame.
I think I may keep shoulder strap and waist belt attachment points (and maybe include pockets for aluminum stays).
If I want to take it off the frame and carry it alone, I can if I do that.
I intend to put a pocket along the back to slip a piece of foam in, both as a seat pad and to give the pack some rigidity.
(And that would also clear up room inside currently taken up by the inflatable seat pad I have in there.)

I also have the idea to do an iteration of it which is just a top opening pack, rather than a full clamshell opening.
While everything is neatly attached, I wonder if itís really such a good use of the space available.

6
Introductions / New position
« on: November 21, 2017, 02:02:40 PM »
Just wanted to update you guys on my new position, so that we follow the guidelines of full disclosure. I recently started in a position as a Product Technician at NorrÝna here in Norway. It's a ~13 month mat.leave position. Basically I assemble prototypes and samples by sewing, gluing, taping and other processes that are common in high-end clothing.

I'm not killing off my other projects, but they'll take the back seat for a while.

7
Pouches / Re: M1 en bloc pouch
« on: November 19, 2017, 03:42:14 PM »
Sorry for the slow reply. Your pouch looks pretty good.

I think most of us started with a home sewing machine and know the difficulty of making it work when sewing many layers of Cordura and webbing. It definitely gets much easier over time.

It takes a while to learn out to lay everything out. I would highly recommend starting on paper. Sketch it out and think where stitches will show on the product face and see if you can layer so that they do not show. Eventually this will become second nature, and will serve you well when making medical kit, or complicated backpacks.

For the pouch flaps, especially if you having some issues getting the folds just right I would suggest chauffeuring the edges a little. It looks clean and hides mistakes. Starting with the fabric folded inside out (which you did) mark a line to follow around your seam allowance and stitch (as shown in green). Next trim the extra material as shown in red. Invert the flap, (optionally insert mesh or webbing to stiffen), then stitch a tight pattern around the perimeter.

For the palls grid, I would stitch your two layers of cordura inside out just like the pouch flap. Once inverted lay out your webbing and stitch down only one column across all rows (shown in green). Then fold the webbing out of the way and stitch the center line of the pouch (shown in red). This time folding the pouch out of the way and stitch the other column of webbing. Now you can stitch down the sides, [webbing and pouch sides in one pass all around] closing the bottom of the pouch by folding in the bottom of the back under the bottom stitches. Now the face of the pouch has only one clean line stitched all around (tacked on the webbing). This is the way I like to do it, others may have their own preference.

Over all awesome work. I look forward to your future projects.

These may load as tiny squares, they should be clickable.

   

*corrected spelling error.

8
Platforms / Modular Gun Belt Prototype
« on: October 19, 2017, 07:40:42 PM »
This is an amalgamated design from our Renegade Belt, which was a standard rigger's belt, and elements of the previous belt system. Two belt system, although there is only one belt shown. Same concept as a some others on the market, but instead of folded 1" webbing tacked on for reduced width PALS, we are using laser cut Cordura laminate, in this case, Whiskey Two-Four's ACRONYM material. The design of the slots enables the user to weave MOLLE accessories on using the top and bottom narrow sections, or attach directly to the larger centre section. Instead of using regular Hook along the inside, we're testing out a hook/loop hybrid that will grab either. So far it's working quite well.

More info on the website: https://www.geardynamics.ca/blog/2017/10/19/modular-gun-belt-prototype






9
Vendors and sources / Re: Brookwoods Arid 1000d
« on: September 18, 2017, 04:47:57 PM »
I notice it too while shopping there a week ago, they stock some of the most uncommon fabric at times.

10
Tutorials and techniques / Re: Cordura Pouch Flap construction technique
« on: September 18, 2017, 02:02:52 PM »
Alright, sorry for the slow response to this. Here's my method of making pouch flaps:

1. Cut your material and sew wrong sides together with whatever SA you like and whatever shape you like. Just remember to clip corners to allow angles to turn out cleanly.



2. Turn right side out and push out corners. For pouch flaps I usually do this fairly quickly with a piece of dowelling that has been rounded off. Manipulating the finished corner in your fingers does help make them look crisp. You can see my other corner tool that I tend to use in stubborn areas. Be careful not to stab right through the corner!



3. I then use a plastic insert/jig to flatten out the flap and force out the seams. Once it's inserted, it helps to drag it across a blunt table edge to really crease the edges.





4. I use a plastic mesh inside flaps to help give them some body. This is easily inserted while the jig is still in place, then the jig can be slid out. Still looking for a better option to the mesh, but its good for now. You could omit this step as long as you really make sure the edges are creased with the jig. My mesh does help keep the pouch flat while sewing the top stitch.



5. For a real clean run of stitching, I use a zipper foot and a magnetic guide. This makes the top stitch a breeze. After that, sew on your PALS, Velcro, labels etc.


11
Tutorials and techniques / Re: Cordura Pouch Flap construction technique
« on: September 04, 2017, 12:26:03 PM »
Best/cleanest method I've found:

- Cut two equal size rectangles
- Sew together insideout. I use 3/8" SA.
- Trim any angles correctly, so they turn out properly
- Flip right side out and push out corners. I use corner pushing tool for this.

After that, I insert plastic mesh for added rigidity, using a premade LDPE jig. This REALLY helps create clean edges. As a rule, the jig and any insert you use should be 1/4" narrower (1/8" on each side) than the space you left between your stitch lines, to allow for some fitting room. For example, a 4" wide piece of raw material sewn with 3/8" SA on each side will leave you 3-1/4" space. A 3" wide insert would be used, making a finished pouch flap that is approx 3" wide. I've found that insideout seams eat up about 1/8", maybe slightly less with thinner material.

Once everything is flattened and the insert is in place, we top stitch, using a magnetic guide and a zipper foot, to keep the line perfect and consistent.



Finished Product

12
Platforms / Re: Patrolling Rig V2
« on: August 27, 2017, 11:19:04 AM »
Here's that latest version of the the rig. It's really a V2.5, as the harness was totally reworked. What do you think?


13
Packs and bags / MC black rifle bag
« on: August 13, 2017, 05:43:01 AM »
Hi,

Just wanted to share this project i did for a friend recently. It's made to size for his AR. It has full velcro interior. 6mm spacermesh for padding. Molle and a medium sized pocket on the outside. Fixed carry handles. And removeable shoulderstraps.
 front and backpanel each consists of 5 layers. Double layer of 500d on to woch the molle and carry handles are sewn. Then a piece of 6mm spacermesh. And then a full size piece of velcro sewn to a layer of 500d. Still waiting on the matching paracord and cord ends to finish off the zippers.

Any sugestions and (constructive) criticism is always welcome







 

14
Pouches / Sewímups
« on: August 02, 2017, 07:46:10 PM »

Iíve been using a lacklustre toiletry bag for my sewing kit for about 15 years.
I guess it sort of did the trick, but it was lacking in many ways. I often thought that I should gut the interior and rebuild it. But it always ended up on the back burner.
I jokingly figured I would finish all the other things I wanted to make, finally tackle it ... and then never make anything else.
Figured I would make much more in the years to come and that I owed it to myself to come up with something that really worked.

The Sewímups.

Letís get the most important feature out of the way first: the all important velcro patch panel.
Size wise, itís 24 cm (9Ĺ") high, 16.5 cm (6Ĺ") wide, and 7.5 cm (3") deep



The back features PALS webbing. Partly for attaching to packs and bags, but also to serve as a slot to house a pair of scissors and forceps.
The latter both for pulling a needle, but also to serve as a fid and end grabber for doing paracord work. It can also serve as a precision clamp.

This top view shows the fur coat closure system I use to prevent the two tools from falling out. (Theyíre called ďfur clipsĒ {pelzhaken in German}.
Prym makes it, and the product code for it in black is 416502, although it is also available in brown and beige.)
The ring was sewn between the two ends of the Ĺ" webbing, and the metal clasp was sewn to the top of the pouch.
Iíve done it on a few medical pouches and it works very nicely.

And a close up of the lanyard knots I used for the zipper pulls.

The two sides. I used a #10 zipper, which is probably over kill, but I had this and didnít feel like making a trip just to get a smaller zipper.
(And youíll see white positioning marks everywhere. Theyíll fade in time.)

Bottom. Itís not actually that lumpy and misshapen.

Okay, the outside is a pretty straightforward rectangular pouch. Letís get on to the juicy bits, the interior.

I wanted to be able to open it right up and lay it flat. Yet, if I had it attached to a bag or pack, it could fall open and nothing would fall out.


The front panel features CLASP (Cord Lattice Attachment System Pattern), paracord with the cores taken out and sewn in a matrix.
I can attach bunjee cord to this to hold spools of thread (Coats Upholstery for the most part) and film canisters with (rarely used) safety pins, and (often used) rubber thimbles.
Also put a Filzer I‑Beam X‑90 flashlight in there.

In the bottom I attached these ITW-Nexus PipeDoc Sternum Sliders.
And I used them in a completely different way than they were ever intended to be used.
How I intend to use them is as a spindle for a spool of thread. A piece of paracord with a button knot in one end as a stopper.
The bunjee is fine for storing thread, but for the thread that Iím using for a given project, and will use for a while usually, I wanted to have easier access to.




Paracord goes through the spool, slide the paracord through the piping holder and finish it off with a figure 8 to serve as a stopper knot on the other end. Works very nicely so far.

Behind this is a slot to house a sketchbook. I use it for sketching ideas, visually solving problems, scribbling down measurements and calculations, etc.


The back panel.

Trying to figure out slots to house all the myriad of tools is a pain in the butt.
Not to mention, I might use different tools sometimes for different tasks, purchase different tools that are a different size, etc.
So what I came up with in the Exploriment Laboratories is an exciting new modular attachment system known as VREE Ė Velcro Repositionable Exchangeable Equipment.
(My 4th modular attachment system for anyone keeping count, after Thomasí Attachable Bag System, Belt Attachment Lowerable Loop System and Cord Lattice Attachment System Pattern.)

Each tool has a pocket made of hook Velcro on the back, and loop Velcro on the front.
This way I can position them where I like, remove them, stack them on top of each other, etc.


A closeup of one of the pouches. Not at all fancy. Iíve been adding a piece of webbing and a bit of velcro on it to help hold the contents in place.


I still intend to make a few more pockets, but to give you an idea:
Top row: Olfa retractable knife, Dritz measuring gauge,
6" metal ruler, and needles in the loop Velcro with a piece of loop Velcro over that to hold them in place.
(One of the things I still have to make are some pockets for pencil lead holders that I use to hold needles.
But these are the ones I use most frequently, so I thought it made sense to have them be easily accessible.),
and while itís folded out of the way in this picture, you can see it in the one above, a Victorinox Classic.
Bottom row: extra blades for the Olfa knife, A Staedtler Mars Technico drafting pencil
 Ė I like these partly because the plunger contains a semi-decent sharpener (will get a second one for which Iím trying to find white lead),
Victorinox SwissCard scissors, a measuring tape, bic lighter, candle in a tin, and a white Sakura GellyRoll marker.

Closeup of the holder for the measuring tape.

A tea light I pressed into a small tin. If I have to singe the ends of a lot of webbing or material or cord, I prefer to do it with a candle.
Keep a lighter lit for a long time and it quickly gets hot enough to burn your thumb. Plus itís a waste of the fuel.
I have loads of tea light candles Iíd prefer to use up before I use up disposable lighters or butane.



Let me just put this picture up again to show another feature, the Bulldog Tails. I use binder clips a lot.
I used to store them in M&M tubes. When I work on something, as I sew an area, I start removing the bulldog clips.
Rather than put them back in the tubes, I would just toss them in the bag, or clip them to things. Not a great solution.
This way I can store them, have easy access both to getting them and also putting them back.
Plus itís just more streamlined than the tubes. I can flip them out of the way to get at the tools underneath.


To prevent them flipping and flapping too much, I put clips on the bottom of them, which attach to a loop of paracord.


And in a slot pocket behind I have a cutting mat. Not an item Iíll use so much, but still really useful to have. And it gives some rigidity to the pouch.


And itís still roughly the same size as the old pouch, probably even a bit smaller.



15
Packs and bags / yet another rolltop
« on: May 08, 2017, 08:29:43 PM »
made this one up for a family member. The request was made to gave it used as either a backpack/sling pack so I used 1"srb instead of ladder locks on the straps.
Simple design with a large pocket on the front, the straps them selfs are fairly basic, but it was what they were looking for.





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