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Messages - Bootcat

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2
If you can pick up a warmer/chiller unit to keep your laser tubes water at the proper temperature, I doubt you'll have much problem. If you're venting outside, consider adding a "blast gate" to your ducting so you can keep outside air from coming inside when the laser is not in use.

EBay has proven to be a good source for water bath stabilizing units for me in the past (used for keeping photography chemistry at the right temperature), not sure if things would/could be different in the EU, as I'm in the states. IDK if glycol would be necessary if the laser room is kept at a stable enough temperature 24hrs/day through the cold winter months.

-Dan

3
I have Bodor 1600x1000mm aswell and i disconected that fan and pluged my BOFA AD PVC Iq extraction unit which can easily grab every smoke. This BOFA helps also with Chlorine in case you are cutting Hypalon or any PVC stuff.

4
Vendors and sources / Re: Hipster fabrics and hardware
« on: November 09, 2017, 07:29:11 PM »
Reviving this old topic... Check out Ohio Travel Bag. http://www.ohiotravelbag.com/  You can make an account and they'll send you the catalog and pricing. They have an absolutely massive catalog of this exact type of hardware that you're looking for. They're also a good source for YKK stuff especially if you need a less-than-cartonloads of zipper tape or pulls in every size and shape you can imagine.

5
Tutorials and techniques / Re: Cordura Pouch Flap construction technique
« on: September 18, 2017, 02:02:52 PM »
Alright, sorry for the slow response to this. Here's my method of making pouch flaps:

1. Cut your material and sew wrong sides together with whatever SA you like and whatever shape you like. Just remember to clip corners to allow angles to turn out cleanly.



2. Turn right side out and push out corners. For pouch flaps I usually do this fairly quickly with a piece of dowelling that has been rounded off. Manipulating the finished corner in your fingers does help make them look crisp. You can see my other corner tool that I tend to use in stubborn areas. Be careful not to stab right through the corner!



3. I then use a plastic insert/jig to flatten out the flap and force out the seams. Once it's inserted, it helps to drag it across a blunt table edge to really crease the edges.





4. I use a plastic mesh inside flaps to help give them some body. This is easily inserted while the jig is still in place, then the jig can be slid out. Still looking for a better option to the mesh, but its good for now. You could omit this step as long as you really make sure the edges are creased with the jig. My mesh does help keep the pouch flat while sewing the top stitch.



5. For a real clean run of stitching, I use a zipper foot and a magnetic guide. This makes the top stitch a breeze. After that, sew on your PALS, Velcro, labels etc.


6
Tutorials and techniques / Re: Cordura Pouch Flap construction technique
« on: September 04, 2017, 12:26:03 PM »
Best/cleanest method I've found:

- Cut two equal size rectangles
- Sew together insideout. I use 3/8" SA.
- Trim any angles correctly, so they turn out properly
- Flip right side out and push out corners. I use corner pushing tool for this.

After that, I insert plastic mesh for added rigidity, using a premade LDPE jig. This REALLY helps create clean edges. As a rule, the jig and any insert you use should be 1/4" narrower (1/8" on each side) than the space you left between your stitch lines, to allow for some fitting room. For example, a 4" wide piece of raw material sewn with 3/8" SA on each side will leave you 3-1/4" space. A 3" wide insert would be used, making a finished pouch flap that is approx 3" wide. I've found that insideout seams eat up about 1/8", maybe slightly less with thinner material.

Once everything is flattened and the insert is in place, we top stitch, using a magnetic guide and a zipper foot, to keep the line perfect and consistent.



Finished Product

7
Workspace, tools, machinery, and manufacturing / New shop tables
« on: June 01, 2017, 11:53:12 AM »
Ive been a ghost for a while, just got a new home and shop on top of the day job at tesla so I have been super busy. Anyways I just wanted to share some of the stuff Ive been working on in the shop.

3/4 MDF wrapped in woodland then epoxy resin over the top ( a bit under 1/2" thick ), frame and legs are 3x3 bosh extrusion (awesome shit btw.), ohh and I 3d printed my logo and inset it in the tables as well.

These pics where taken a few days ago but ill make sure to update after everything is set up.




8
Here's how I built a laser for my Brother KE430F bartacker machine. Great tip from StonePhotoGear and Gear Dynamics! It really speeds up the process of "aiming" the material in the work clamp.

The laser is held in a cooling block / movable clamp combination and connected to the machine on the eye-protection bar. It's a pretty rigid construction, it won't move by itself. It can easily handle the vibrations of the machine.
I don't know how long the laser light itself will hold, just had it for a couple of weeks. It doesn't get hot at all, so I hope it will stay with me :)

If you have a stable power supply, you might not even need the current driver. Not sure. I've read that lasers need a supersteady voltage and current.

I got all parts from ebay, except for a 5 volts wall power adapter, which I already had.
Make sure you get the crosshair laser lense. They also sell single lines, dots etc.

Total costs are something like 10-15 euros, depending on which power adapter you use. The assembly is really easy, 1 hour of work!


Here we go:

-Solder the output + and - of the power adapter to the input of the current driver. The current driver is really small so I opened up the power adapter housing and put it in there, wrapped in some duct tape.

-Solder the output + and - of the current driver to the laser + and -. You could also use a DC jack & plug.

-Test the laser. You can focus the laser beam by turning the end cap.

-Take the round baseplate of the laser mount.
-Screw the cooling block on the laser mount.
-Put the laser in the cooling block. I put some teflon tape over the laser focus, to make it tight.

-Drill and tap a hole AT THE RIGHT SPOT on the eye-protection bar of the bartacking machine. Make sure you tap with the size of thread of the laser mount. Or else connect with some more nuts. Check beforehand where to drill, the whole thing needs to be able to make the right angles etc. I wanted to laser to be right above the needle position or as much as possible, so I had to move the eye protection glass down one hole on the holding bar.

-My wall adapter had a convenient integrated on/off switch so i mounted it next to the on/off switch of the bartacker machine, under the table.

-Connect and tighten all parts, focus the laser and you're done!


Material Sourcing:

Tools needed:

-soldering iron and soldering lead
-some shrink tube or electrical tape
-some thin double electrical wire
-1/4" UNC 24 TPI (or 20 TPI??) thread tap

Parts from ebay: (I've put the descriptions and pics below, so the links don't expire)

-Aluminum Radiator Heatsink 22x27x46mm For 12mm Laser Module With Screws Silver
-Adjustable Red 5mW 650nm Cross Laser Module Focus Laser Head Industrial Grade
-650nm 532nm 780nm 808nm 980nm Laser Diode LD Drive Driver Current Adjustable
-360 Degree Clamp Base Stand Mount Holder For 12mm Laser Module Pointer Torch

You also need a 3-5 volts wall powered adapter.

Hope it helps!











9
Bergspitze, could you tell us how you pattern helmet covers with tape? I have the hardest time doing that with the muslin method as the surface is slippery and non-spheric/irregular/bumpy.

Sure thing, I don't have many pictures of the process, so hopefully this makes sense.  I use blue masking/painters tape (doesn't leave a residue) in small sections to cover the entire object.  When it is completely covered, I figure out where I want my seams to go, and then cut the tape off as such.  Lay the panels out flat, and create a paper pattern from those.  I adjust for symmetry, make a mock up, do final adjustments, and then sew the real thing.  More often than not (as is the case below) I have to make a few small adjustments after the first functional prototype is done.  This process is particularly useful for helmet covers, but I do the same process for form-fitting projects for all sorts of things.

I do have one photo of the Team Wendy cover pattern making in progress, and then the final result of the first attempt. Although you can see the sides don't quite fit perfectly (stretch fabric didn't quite form as anticipated) you can also kind of see how the individual panels are cut apart to be the stretch/mesh/etc. sections.  Next time I have to do a custom cover that requires another pattern to be made, I'll be sure to document it better and make a post about how I do it.




10
Workspace, tools, machinery, and manufacturing / Re: DIY Webbing Cutter
« on: February 10, 2017, 08:28:54 AM »
Very nice!  Thank you for sharing :)

11
What if the design TDP was purchased by .mil? Does that not make the taxpayers partial owners?

How many different ways can one make a "rigger belt"?   One layer Type 13, two layers Type 13, two layers Type 13 plus HDPE, two layers Type 13, HDPE, and velcro inside. Just about all are copies of some others' work.

I build what my active duty customers want and need to perform their mission, sometimes slapping a Rolls Royce hood ornament on a Volkswagen bug.  If Natick continues to give the Fighting Soldier the exact opposite of what they ask for, then I will continue to unfornicate their fornicating vertical fornications.

12
Asset exchange / WTS Sewing Materials EU located (webbing, fabric etc.)
« on: February 04, 2017, 06:15:44 AM »
Hi guys, since we buy materials mostly directly from manufacturers and we have excelent import freight charges we can share some our materials for reasonable prices located in EU. All prices below are without VAT !
If you cant find something below from Manufacturers mentoied fell free ask for it. We carry stuff from those brands: Texcel Ind., Murdock Webbing, MMI Textile, Ideal Fastener, YKK, Brand & Oppenheimer Co., Inc., A&E, Tweave LLC, Tencate, Austri Alpin
For those who does not have valid VAT number in EU we have to charge 21% VAT. For those out of EU its FREE of VAT

Orders please send to my personal email: fencl@marines-shop.com
Shipping within EU takes 2-6 days: via GLS (price from 6 EUR/package depends on weight and dimensions)
Shipping out of EU takes 2-8 days: via DHL Express (price from 20 EUR/package depends on weight and dimensions)


FABRIC Purchasing by the yards. If request full size 75 yards roll there is available discount !

Delcotex GmbH & Co. KG CORDURA® 560D 5C Flecktarn            22.35 EUR/yard
Brand & Oppenheimer Co., Inc. CORDURA® 500D Coyote Brown 10.15 EUR/yard
Brand & Oppenheimer Co., Inc. CORDURA® 500D Ranger Green  10.15 EUR/yard
Brand & Oppenheimer Co., Inc. CORDURA® 500D Multicam          16.95 EUR/yard
Brand & Oppenheimer Co., Inc. CORDURA® 330D Multicam          17.95 EUR/yard
Brand & Oppenheimer Co., Inc. CORDURA® 330D Coyote Brown  11.80 EUR/yard

Tweave LLC Durastretch 4 Way Stretch 520E Ranger Green      24,20 EUR/yard
Tweave LLC Durastretch 4 Way Stretch 520E Coyote Brown     24,20 EUR/yard
Tweave LLC Durastretch 4 Way Stretch 520E Black                   24,20 EUR/yard
Tweave LLC Durastretch 4 Way Stretch 520E Multicam             48,20 EUR/yard

Brand & Oppenheimer Co., Inc. NY/CO Ripstop Fabric Multicam Original 17.95 EUR/yard
Brand & Oppenheimer Co., Inc. NY/CO Ripstop Fabric Multicam Tropic    18.60 EUR/yard
Brand & Oppenheimer Co., Inc. NY/CO Ripstop Fabric M81 Woodland    11.20 EUR/yard

Tencate Defender M DK605 Khaki single jersey knit (for combat shirts)     21,90 EUR/yard

WEBBING Purchasing by the yards. If request full size 100 yards roll there is available discount !

0.75" Texcel Ind. Multicam Original 2 side print  1,21 EUR/ yard
0.75" Texcel Ind. Solution Dyed Coyote Brown  0,39 EUR/yard
0.75" Texcel Ind. Solution Dyed Ranger Green   0,39 EUR/yard

1" Texcel Ind. A-A 55301 Multicam Original 2 side print        1,30 EUR/yard
1" Texcel Ind. A-A 55301 Multicam Tropic 2 side print          1,30 EUR/yard
1" Texcel Ind. A-A 55301 Multicam Black 2 side print           1,30 EUR/yard
1" Texcel Ind. A-A 55301 Multicam Arid 2 side print            1,30 EUR/yard
1" Texcel Ind. MIL-W-17337 Solution Dyed Coyote Brown   0,42 EUR/yard
1" Texcel Ind. MIL-W-17337 Solution Dyed Ranger Green    0,42 EUR/yard
1" Texcel Ind. MIL-W-17337 Solution Dyed TAN499             0,42 EUR/yard

1,5" Texcel Ind MIL-W-17337 Multicam Original 2 side print   1,85 EUR/yard
1,5" Texcel Ind MIL-W-17337 Multicam Tropic 2 side print     1,85 EUR/yard
1,5" Texcel Ind MIL-W-17337 Solution Dyed Coyote Brown   0,58 EUR/yard
1,5" Texcel Ind MIL-W-17337 Dolution Dyed Ranger Green   0,58 EUR/yard

1,75" Murdock Webbing Inc. Type 7 Class 1A Black               1,80 EUR/yard
1,75" Murdock Webbing Inc. Type 7 Class 1A Olive Drab        1,80 EUR/yard

2" Texcel Ind. MIL-W-17337 Multicam Original 2 side print    2,39 EUR/yard
2" Texcel Ind. MIL-W-17337 Multicam Tropic 2 side print      2,39 EUR/yard
2" Texcel Ind. MIL-W-17337 Solution Dyed Coyote Brown    0,72 EUR/yard
2" Texcel Ind. MIL-W-17337 Solution Dyed Ranger Green     0,72 EUR/yard

3" Texcel Ind. MIL-W-17337 Solution Dyed Coyote Brown   1,23 EUR/yard
3" Texcel Ind. MIL-W-17337 Solution Dyed TAN499             1,23 EUR/yard

BINDING TAPE Purchasing by the yards. If request full size 250 yards roll there is available discount !

0.75" Texcel Ind. MIL-PRF-5038 T-III Multicam Original       0,80 EUR/yard
0.75" Texcel Ind. MIL-PRF-5038 T-III Multicam Tropic          0,80 EUR/yard
0.75" Texcel Ind. MIL-PRF-5038 T-III Coyote Brown            0,22 EUR/yard

1" Texcel Ind MIL-PRF-5038 T-III Multicam Original             0,90 EUR/yard
1" Texcel Ind MIL-PRF-5038 T-III Multicam Tropic                0,90 EUR/yard
1" Texcel Ind MIL-PRF-5038 T-III Multicam Black                 0,90 EUR/yard
1" Texcel Ind. MIL-PRF-5038 T-III Coyote Brown                 0,30 EUR/yard

ELASTIC Purchasing by the yards. If request full size 50 yards roll there is available discount !

5" MMI Textile Inc. MIL-5664 2 side print Multicam elastic vowen  10,10 EUR/yard

ZIPPERS + SLIDERS Purchasing by the yards. If request full size 150 yards roll there is available discount !

#5 Ideal Fastener Multicam printed zipper                            1,69 EUR/yard
#5 Ideal Fastener Coyote Brown slider                                  0,15 EUR/pcs

5C YKK Zipper Olive Drab                                                     0,70 EUR/meter
5C YKK Zipper Coyote Brown                                               0,70 EUR/meter
5C YKK Zipper Black                                                             0,70 EUR/meter
sliders available by request in various styles.

SEWING THREADS Purchasing by spool. If request box 10pcs there is available discount !

Product info: https://www.guetermann.com/shop/en/view/content/guet_productDetail?currentProduct=tera_40&showprices=true&node=&type=
1200m Gütermann TERA40(75tex) Sand (100% polyester continuous filament)                 6,95 EUR/pcs
1200m Gütermann TERA40(75tex) Ranger Green (100% polyester continuous filament)    6,95 EUR/pcs
1200m Gütermann TERA40(75tex) Black (100% polyester continuous filament)                 6,95 EUR/pcs

COBRA BUCKLES Purchasing by pcs. If request box 200pcs there is available discount !

FC45KVF 45mm Black male ajdustable COBRA                           12,50 EUR/pcs
FC45KVF 45mm Wolf Grey male adjustable COBRA                    12,50 EUR/pcs
FC45KVF 45mm Coyote Brown male adjustable COBRA             12,50 EUR/pcs


13
Tutorials and techniques / WTFiles: Open Source Zipper Guide
« on: September 29, 2016, 05:51:19 PM »
This came in very handy as we were awaiting a custom machined foot.  As shown for a Juki LU-2210.  Adapt as necessary for your application.

Do you appreciate and agree with the giving spirit of open source?  Don't be that guy- Take a moment to familiarize yourself with TAPR OHL.

--->Zipped folder on Dropbox<---









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6061 T-6 Aircraft Alloy Staves:
   I've used Onlinemetals.com for over ten years, for 0.125" x 1" flat bar staves and formerly, machining stock:
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=1125&step=4&showunits=inches&id=997&top_cat=60

  Cut to length then dip in Plastic Dip or buy the plastic end caps from John Howard Inc:
http://www.johnhowardcompany.com/Stave%20Cap%20Berry%20Compliant.htm

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