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Messages - Misadventure Gear

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1
Hey everyone, so while stitching part time i have also been at university studying electronic and electrical engineering, currently in my final year which means Honours Project dissertation woo.

For my dissertation i am designing and building a automatic cutting machine for webbing etc. The features as of writing this is as follows:
Automatic feeding of up to 5" wide material/materials
steady Temperature controlled Hot knife cutting
user selectable cutting temperature
Accurate Cutting to specified lengths (currently increments of 5mm)
Quantity of cuts to 9999
Easy user interface
Cut from user provided file ( see Below)

as well as the above the aim is to make it as small and also as cheap as possible without jeopardizing function or durability.

The final features is to allow the user to create a simple file that has all the cuts for a product place it on a USB, insert into the machine and be able to cut the lengths on the file to the quantity inputted on the machine. this was with a product with multiple lengths in mind like a chest rig to make setting up a production run of cutting simpler and as the files will be incredible tiny

i was wondering if there is any features you guys like or would like in an automatic cutter or any considerations to take into account, If any of you are interested in the progress i can keep you all updated.

Thanks in advance for any input

2
Hello all,

I'm not sewing much any more so you may not even recognize my name. I used to be pretty active in the old DIY Tactical forum.

My brother came into a few industrial machines when his wife inherited a property in Montana. Garage find material that I haven't looked at myself, but here it is. Sorry, no photos either. Caveat Emptor. Heads are in Seattle for service, tables and the rest are still in Montana. He goes back and forth between the two areas and down to Portland ocasionally and has a pick-up truck, so delivery across the PNW from Montana/Idaho/Washington/Northern Oregon is a possibility.

This is the garage find I always dreamed about and never came across.

He came to me to see if I wanted to get back into sewing and expand my shop, but I don't think I'm interested. We're both retired US Army (both are E7's) and support small businesses and are hoping to find a home shop that wants to expand, or a small veteran owned business that is looking for their next growth opportunity. He knows he can probably peddle them off to sew shops around JBLM, but would prefer to help out someone who needs it more instead.

He took all the heads to a place local to him in Seattle and was told they are in excellent functional condition. The shop gave him good ballpark figures on value so unfortunately there are no steals to be found here, though I can't speak to his ability to negotiate.

Frist are a pair of Pfaff 145. One of them is reportedly in excellent condition all the way around, head, table motor. The other needs a fresh table surface, but is otherwise working fine. Clutch motors on both, working fine.

Next is a Consew 206 RB2. I had one of these for a while and it's a super sweet machine with a really great 60's vintage look and a funky lift-for-reverse lever that has a separate reverse stitch length built in to it. Clutch motor works fine. No lamp.

Finally is a Chandler 67, which is essentially a 206 RB with a horizontal hook, built in Germany. Probably needs a new table surface. Clutch motor works. Might need a new lamp.

You can contact me here but I don't check in very often, so shoot me an email at psyopper@gmail.com too.

Thanks!




3
Packs and bags / Squish’mups: Compression Panel Day Pack
« on: December 03, 2017, 11:53:25 AM »


My new compression panel day pack, the Squish’mups.
(And just to give you a sense of the size, I’m 203 cm (6'7") and 113 kg (250 lbs). Yes, I make a 130 lb. Great Dane look small.)

I’ve tried a few approaches to this idea, and they all fell a bit short. But I’m certain this will be the solution! I think. Maybe...

The idea is to have a detachable day pack that I would have with me on a two hour hike or a two week canoe trip.
There are things that are necessary for both – what changes usually is insulation, shelter, food, etc., on longer trips and time of year.
I want to have a way to carry the necessities; water, means to purify it, first aid kit, rain protection, some insulation, a day of food, etc.

Besides being able to carry it as a stand alone day pack (with or without a waist belt, and with a frame sheet, aluminum stays, or both, or none) or have it attached to a frame (Kifaru or the one I’ll eventually build),
it’ll serve as a compression panel. Between the Squish’mups and the frame I can carry a no-frills pack sack (the next thing I’ll make), a duffel bag, a dry bag, a barrel, a Pelican case, a rifle drag bag, etc., etc.

The difference between some of my other attempts, is to have a pack not very deep, but wide and tall.
Keeping the depth of it down helps prevent the center of gravity from being put too far out.
The dimensions are 60 cm (23") x 33 cm (13") 10 cm x (4").

Using some very complimicalated mathematics*, I derived at a figure of this being about a 37 liter pack, or approximately 2250 cubic inches.

*( C = W + D x 2 ÷ π ÷ 2 = R
π x R² x H = V )


Any of you at all in the know, will automatically recognize that the belt and the way it’s attached, and really the whole suspension, is pretty much my take on the Kifaru Omni system.
I’ve been using it for a decade, it works very well - so why re-invent the wheel as far as that went. Some ideas for the belt were also nicked from the Hill People Gear Prairie Belt.)
This is to a large degree a larger E&E with an Omni suspension.





Some closeups of the belt. I changed the Delta Straps a little by adding removable ladder locks. In Kifaru’s the webbing is sewn into the belt.
I wanted to be able to have this as a stand alone belt if need be, and wanted to be able to remove them altogether. (The HPG belt does something similar.)
I also added four tabs along the top so that I could attach suspenders.
The other things I did was attach Eva-Zote foam and spacer mesh to the belt (as well as two strips along the back) both for padding and - hopefully - a bit of comfort on hot days.



Another view of the belt with the ladder locks removed and the suspender tabs more visible.
The other thing I did was use a buckle arrangement similar to the HPG Prairie Belt.



The back, showing the inside and outside. The 2" straps at the top go all the way to the bottom, and serves as a carry handle.

The back, showing the inside and outside. Inside I put 4, ½" strips of webbing on both the front and the back,
so that I could hold things in place with bunjee cords and cord locks.
Inside is also a slot for an HDPE frame sheet and you can just see the 2" slot pockets for aluminum stays. I can use one or the other, or both, or none.



Bottom. Bit hard to tell, but it’s an irregular hexagon.
One piece of gear that I absolutely wanted to use was my MSR Titan Kettle – which was a bit bigger than the depth I had envisioned for this.
I shaped the pack so that only the bottom part I would put it in was sized to accommodate it. The rest tapers away to be as slim as possible.



Sides showing the water bottle holders (corsets so that any size bottle can be accommodated), compression straps, and the daisy chain riding up the sides and over the top.


Top, again showing the daisy chain and the compression straps, as well as carrying handle (the straps go all the way along the back to the bottom).



Trekking pole holders on the front. A strip of ½" webbing, sewn to be 2 channels, with bunjee cord and a cord lock.


The straps that will attach the compression pack to the frame.




Some closeups.

[​img]https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_xaB3aSVgf4/WiQM3HXAiKI/AAAAAAAAS6M/rD74-nXtozQ3FyHQQm3QWKcYkBKZYWmUQCLcBGAs/s1600/Squish%25E2%2580%2599mupsWaterBottleHolder1Small.jpg[/img]

​​​Closer look at the water bottle holders. I wanted to be able to accommodate different sized bottle​s​ if need be.
I did the bottom so there is a hinge, to better fit either Kleen Kanteens or the Classic 1 liter Nalgenes. And on the bottom by the seam you can see the two holes I put for the cord to emerge from.




​​​The Kifaru E&E and the Squish’mups side by side. I got the E&E a decade ago for the purpose I outlined earlier.
Just found it too small for my needs. I also found the fact that I can only attach it via the sides meant it always sags down.​

​​

​The ½" strips of webbing and how things are held in place with bunjee cords and cord locks.
If it was a top opening pack I could just shove things down inside. Given that it opens all the way up, I wanted to makes sure everything stayed put when I opened it.


To give a description of what’s all here:
Starting top left, first aid kit (I’m going to make one specifically to fit along the width along the top, and have it be a tear-away),
below that a pouch with some miscellaneous stuff - repair kit, toiletry kit, headlamp, gaiters.
To the right of that, at the top, an inflatable seat pad, below that a ground sheet (foot print from a 1 person MEC tent) below that a bag with approximately a days worth of food.
To the right of that a bag with a sweater, gloves, socks, toque and buff, all in merino wool.
To the right of that at the top, a Swiss mesh scarf.
About a meter square, it’s one if those items I could in theory live without, but it’s so versatile it always comes along and I always find a use for it.
As a scarf, I drape it over or wrap it around my head when I sleep, I’ve rigged it up as a sun shade, it can serve as camouflage, collect leaves for a debris shelter,
I’ve strung it up as a place to put gear so it’s off the ground - the uses are endless.
Below that is a cozy that fits a home made dehydrated meal and inside of it is my trusty MSR Titan kettle
and LMF cup with a homemade stove and wind screen and fuel bottles and lighter.
Below that is an Integral Tactical silnylon poncho. Thin and light, it serves as both wearable rain protection and shelter.

Anyway, my confident prognostication that this will be THE solution ... fell a bit short. It’s very close, but not quite. It’s really comfortable, but then again, it’s an Omni suspension, so it would be.

My biggest gripe is the water bottle carriers. The bunjee cord adjustment system mainly.
The next go round will be attached in the seam at the bottom, and via SRB at the top, and instead of a cord lattice, it will be webbing straps adjustable via Velcro.

The daisy chain up the sides and top will be dispensed with, since its main purpose was for the bottle cord lattice to weave through.
And my initial thought was maybe use as an attachment point for something. Would rather dispense with the weight.

Also the way the compression straps attach to the pack itself when not on the main frame, will change. I had attachment points all the way up the sides, top and bottom.
Instead there will only be tabs specifically for those straps to connect to. Again, unnecessary weight for, maybe I might attach something to it some time.

The way the compression webbing attaches will be different as well. Part of my original design was to have a mesh panel that I could use to stick a wet rain jacket or tarp under.
Then it hit me. Duh. Why not just use those compression straps for that purpose. The next iteration will do away with the metal tri-glide / loop-loc attachment, have it be one piece and route through webbing tabs.
I can loosen it, stick what I need under it and cinch it tight. Basically, the ​​Kifaru Cargo Net​​.
Slightly different, but essentially, as soon as it’s no longer sewn to the pack, that’s what it became.

Another idea that seemed good at first, but had to actually use for a while to realize the shortcomings of,
are the trekking pole holders on the front. The next iteration will have them be attached to the main frame instead.

It will also be just a pocket, rather than a full on pack. Rather than a built in suspension, I’ll simply attach it to the main frame.
I think I may keep shoulder strap and waist belt attachment points (and maybe include pockets for aluminum stays).
If I want to take it off the frame and carry it alone, I can if I do that.
I intend to put a pocket along the back to slip a piece of foam in, both as a seat pad and to give the pack some rigidity.
(And that would also clear up room inside currently taken up by the inflatable seat pad I have in there.)

I also have the idea to do an iteration of it which is just a top opening pack, rather than a full clamshell opening.
While everything is neatly attached, I wonder if it’s really such a good use of the space available.

4
Platforms / Modular Gun Belt Prototype
« on: October 19, 2017, 07:40:42 PM »
This is an amalgamated design from our Renegade Belt, which was a standard rigger's belt, and elements of the previous belt system. Two belt system, although there is only one belt shown. Same concept as a some others on the market, but instead of folded 1" webbing tacked on for reduced width PALS, we are using laser cut Cordura laminate, in this case, Whiskey Two-Four's ACRONYM material. The design of the slots enables the user to weave MOLLE accessories on using the top and bottom narrow sections, or attach directly to the larger centre section. Instead of using regular Hook along the inside, we're testing out a hook/loop hybrid that will grab either. So far it's working quite well.

More info on the website: https://www.geardynamics.ca/blog/2017/10/19/modular-gun-belt-prototype






5
Pouches / Dual Magazine pouch made from full laminate
« on: February 04, 2017, 06:04:32 PM »
After seeing WTF SAR12 laminate pouch I wanted to try and make a full laminate pouch.
It turned out better then I thought. I still think the black laminate would be to rigid but have to try it.








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Packs and bags / Re: Stove bag project
« on: October 28, 2016, 10:24:11 PM »
Hey, just an update I finally got around to getting this built, my buddy originally wanted a zipper top but I didn't have a design for that so I just made a standard lid.
Scott







7
End result for me: I found electrical conduits (Merlin Gerin Electric, rectangular section, 30x10mm) that proved to do the job well for my padded slings. I have yet to try the bigger size with curved shoulder straps.

8
I have two methods for attaching the straps;

The first one is for small packs, described by TwoWayTrauma on his post.. It´s a nice and simple method, which keeps the layer buildup in the seam into a minimum, and also kind of puts the straps automatically into a natural angle.

The second method is for medium and large packs;

2" webbing is box-x`d into both shoulder straps, which in turn, atre box-x´d into the backpanel. Also notice the box-x (well, more like a diamond-x) which is sewn through both straps. (on the other side of the backpanel, i have hotglued an extra layer of 1000d for extra strength. After the box-x´s, i cut the excess of that fabric away)

The great thing about this method is that it allows the use of load lifters (which i think is an absolute must when making anything bigger than a small pack), and also the straps have some space to move, so they will adapt to the body of the user

Hope this helps






9
Everything else / Quivers (pic heavy)
« on: August 10, 2016, 03:13:38 AM »
I recently made the girlfriend and I matching side quivers.
They are identical except that her's is 2 inches shorter to not totally swallow her arrows because I have a pretty long draw @ 30" (and her's is a little short).
I used 500d Ranger Green reinforced with HDPE and lined with felt to knock down on rattle. The stick connecting the top loop to the bottom is linseed oiled poplar laced on with 550 cord.
This type of quiver has been around for quite a while, but other than "side quiver" I don't know it's proper name. They are typically leather with a board connecting the top & bottom similar to these OR all leather with an opening to pull the arrows through.






The paracord in the bottom is actually a piece of shock cord in a paracord sheath to protect it from the points (mostly the broadheads). I gutted paracord, slithered the shock cord in and sewed it on one side then collapsed the paracord sheath down the shock cord and sewed it at the other end. I did this to make the paracord sheath a couple inches longer than the shock cord, so it can actually stretch.



It's used as a divider which allows me to organize my arrows so I can draw the arrow I want without looking.



The girlfriend using hers...


And me shooting at 2 square targets and a jack in the box cup, though I was shooting terribly in this video   :P



I also made a back quiver a few months ago with some unique features that I'll go over next time.

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Platforms / Panzerklein dynamic load carriage system
« on: July 02, 2016, 11:45:12 AM »










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Service exchange / Custom laser cut and engraved leather patches
« on: June 23, 2016, 09:14:09 AM »
Looking for custom laser cut and engraved leather patches? We do that:-)  It's not just another chunk of burned and ablated animal flesh

Not only do we mark your logo, we also shade the background and seal the face and edges to mitigate smudges and smears.  Next, we stitch laser cut milspec hook to the leather patch for a finished, turnkey product. All of these little details result in a more professional product.

oem AT wtfidea.com


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WTF separated operations from our parent company to better serve our clients.  Sample room established.  Working through the weekend.  More pics to come.






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Everything else / Laser cut project
« on: June 03, 2016, 04:36:47 PM »
My son is graduating high school this year and headed to the Marines this summer, he asked me to help him decorate his cap. I had a few yards of Marine fabric that I thought would work great.
Some parents have a "Cricket" paper cutter, I have a laser. It took a few hours and three test cuts to get it the way I wanted it. I learn a little more about my programs every time I try something new. The image was off the web and needed some work to get it to cut properly.
Enjoy, Scott



14
Packs and bags / Multicam Holdall
« on: May 14, 2016, 05:49:15 AM »
Hi!

Well it's been a long time since I haven't posted anything. Here is a holdall I made for a friend, 42 L, 55x35x25 cm, small enough to be used as a cabin luggage. There are open compartments on each side + zippered pockets. Contrasting is made with hypalon 16oz (thicker I wouldn't have been able to fold it correctly). The lining is made with desert tiger stripe ny/co ripstop, there are also 2 zippered pockets on each interior sides, and a "sleeve" for a stiffener on the bottom where I put a sheet of 1mm HDPE.









Cheers!

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I was very fortunate to have two years of A&P apprenticeship in my junior and senior years of high school.  It was offered through a local vocational school on our campus.  The instructor has a 2600' paved airstrip on approx 600 acres about 30 miles southeast of town.  He just hosted his fourth annual air show and classic car show complete with vendors, food, a big band belting out WWII era tunes, and more.  My license isn't current so we drove  :P



















































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