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Messages - SunriseTacticalGear

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Right on, I just purchased 3 sheets to experiment with.
Do I need a heat press to activate the adhesive?
Do you think there would be a benefit of using a thicker laminated fabric for the base color? For more stiffness?
Thanks, Scott

Thank you!  The description was just modified to indicate a few extra days to ship.  We got to the bottom and the last 4 sheets were destroyed due to improper storage.  Less than a week to ship from 28MAY2019.

No heat press required.  It's PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive).  A dry press might not hurt.

Depending on the desired hand, a laminate may provide the stiffness you're after.

Platforms / PIMPS Turnkey 03 in M81 woodland
« on: May 18, 2019, 06:18:18 PM »
PIMPS (Practical Integrated Modular Platform, Scalable) Turnkey 03 (consists of Accessory Panel 03, Harness 02, and Waist strap 01) shown in M81.  MIL-W-5664 elastic stitched to laser cut ACRONYM holds five 20rd M4 mags or similar.

14.4oz / 408g

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

Concept, design, and engineering / Re: Box Pouch Construction Issues.
« on: April 16, 2019, 05:47:10 AM »
Measure along the line of where the seam is to be sewn, not the edge of the fabric with seam allowance- to get the proper circumference.

Jayson here and are you saying that I only make my "ring" the size of the actual pouch size and not the size with the added SA?

If your front piece is 5x5 + .5" SA, then the circumference is 20 (5x4), not 24 (6x4). For your desired 11x3 footprint, it's 28" circumference, and not 32" as I assume you have used.

I am uncertain with your math.  If I want the pouch to be 5x5, I would add 1/2" SA to each side so I would cut out a 6x6 square.  I do not understand how your circumference is 20 and not 24.  For my Skinny Mini, the pouch was to be 11x3x2.5.  So I cut out two side piece that were 12x4 - which included 1/2" SA.  Are you saying that when I put the zipper ring together, it needs to have a perimeter of 28?  Please respond.

If I understand @essal correctly then:

Correct on the first question. For a pouch that is 5"x5" with 1/2" seam allowance, you would cut the front panel 6"x6" but your "ring" would only be the
(the finish height x 2) + (the finish width x 2) or in this case 20"

Believe me, I quickly learned this the hard way

Nice idea..... My K.I.S.S. solution is to wrap the tail of thread halfway around the bobbin and tug firmly. The thread will seat itself in between the other thread on the bobbin and hold tight. When it's time to load your bobbin case, simply drop it in as normal. Pulling out a tail for the top thread to grab will unseat it from the threads, and you're ready to go. Same technique will also work for cones of thread if you wrap it around the base where the thread meets the cone.

Off Topic / New (gingerbread) machine
« on: December 12, 2018, 03:12:31 PM »
Figured some of you might enjoy this gingerbread Juki, or Julki ("jul" means christmas) we made at Norrøna for a gingerbread competition.

We couldn't get the thread through the take-up lever so if anyone have a suggestion to fix this we'd appreciate it! ;D

Concept, design, and engineering / 3d printed foot
« on: December 02, 2018, 01:57:45 AM »
Hey guys, I'm experimenting with 3d printing and i thought that it would be a nice idea to make some custom 3d printed foots and attachments.

I designed this one yesterday, it is just a copy of the metal one.

Right now it's not working really well and I'm trying to figure out why it's making my stitches shorter than with the metal one.

I think that this could be a very interesting field where to make researches.

Let me know what do you think.


Workspace, tools, machinery, and manufacturing / Re: Juki LU-2828V-7
« on: October 23, 2018, 09:25:47 AM »
This thing is uh-mazing  ;D 


When it comes to turning and topstitching, try using a seam ripper to "pull" out the seam. I find pulling out around 6" at a time, then pressing the seam flat, then topstitching works quite well.

I can shoot a video and post on YT if anyone would be interested in this.


Congratulations! Out of curiosity - are there more than  1 designers at EI or do you replace a lone person who left?

There are multiple.  I'm one of three.  Really looking forward to working with them, I discovered one of them designed one of my favorite packs of all times, so it's a little surreal to be working alongside people that have designed things that I own and absolutely love.

About 6 months ago we demolished the three bedrooms on our little 1000 square foot house, lived out of the front room for a while, and built an addition.  Has been an adventure.  Both my wife and I get dedicated sewing rooms.  We finished mine as quickly as we could...currently, Bergspitze Customs is the last knot on the end of my rope, having been laid off from my full time biochemistry job a month ago and my part time job (of 4 years) being converted to a full time job and given to someone else outside the organization this last week.  Glad to have sewing to fall back on, since other positions, short of flipping burgers, are few and far between right now in my area and we can't move until the house is done (and that would still suck to do after all this work).

So here's the first look at the new space.  Slightly over 300 square feet.  I converted half of a ping pong table into a cutting table with a large Rhino cutting mat on top.  That is attached to a fabric rack that I built from scraps from the construction, and another fabric rack sits underneath for the rest...amazing to see how much fabric has accumulated over the years.  My Consew 206RB-1 sits at the end of the table, raised up on risers to be at the same level as the table.  This provides extra support for larger objects.  Have a horse blanket dropped off for repair that is a perfect example of when that will be helpful.

Going around the room from there I have a large whiteboard (considering pulling it off the mount and putting it on the wall), rolling cart with small-parts bin that I have all my hardware sorted into, a Union Special 39500 overlock, Consew 29BL, Brother PR1000E embroidery machine, and a Juki LUH-520.  Back to the right is an L-shaped office desk with a hot knife cutter on the left side, a converted shoe rack holding all my narrow goods.  Under the narrow goods sits a blueprint cabinet that I got on the local classifieds for $40.  Will eventually convert all my pattern pieces to a sturdy option like chipboard and store them in there.

Tape on the walls marks the studs, so I can hang some more pegboard.  More photos to come.

Here's a chart with bobbin style/dimensions. You can measure yours and look for a match, then shop for that style.


Vendors and sources / Re: Pre wound bobbins
« on: November 05, 2017, 08:10:22 PM »
I Just ran a test with my new bobbins as compared to winding bobbins on the bobbin winder which is located on the top of the machine (juki 1900AH).
I confirmed my past results that I normally get around 65, 15/16", 45 stitch bar tacks with a bobbin that I wind myself. I was able to get between 130-140 bar tacks using the pre wound style.

This. 100% this.

I am sceptical of purchasing pre-wound bobbins. They are expensive, we wound as we went, and frankly didn't need them as we had enough "spare" bobbins for all our colours, AND mostly ran black bobbins.

So while I don't agree with purchasing pre-wound bobbins, I have to commend you on ignoring "tradition" and using a business mindset to see what suits you best. You've looked at it from a financial point of view... even your comment about being "distracted" while a normal bobbin winds, is a cost on business due to slight inefficiencies. Well done for analysing it, and working out what works best for YOUR situation. *insert thumbs up here*   ;)

This is akin to using lasers for cutting. More expensive up front, but potential cost saving in the long run. Different strokes for different folks.

We got a couple of good mannequins from a chain store going out of business at a local mall. They sold off all of their fixtures very inexpensively.

Note that if you want something on which to pattern clothing, those are usually called "dress forms". Dress forms come in many sizes and are made for draping and pattern making. Mannequins are usually a harder plastic and made for clothing display. Their dimensions are usually not realistic for pattern making. I'm just pointing that out since you said "for sizing purposes".

I've been using full body and torso mannequins for some time now. Some thoughts you may find useful:

- a white translucent torso without arms but with partial legs and the ability to stand it on a rotary platform (i.e. cheese plate) gives excellent results for product photography on a white background especially if you can place a lamp shining upwards in the crotch area. Partial legs are useful to display belts. Be sure to buy it in your Medium size - mine is a Small and some vests don't close properly on that size.

- a full size guy in flesh color is cool for static displays in the showroom or at a fair booth. Arms must be detachable because they will not be used most of the time. I bought a Large/Long (188cm) and a Medium/Medium (182cm) but didn't account for the stand and shoe height, 188cm is a giant Crossfitter in my showroom... Go for 182 and 175cm in a straight standing position. Having those two will allow you to try on your vests/belts on two customer sizes and take full gear pictures. Tape all the joints because they will come undone when dressing/undressing frequently.

Off Topic / Happy 4th!
« on: July 04, 2017, 09:54:27 AM »
Hey all,

Happy Independence Day to all of you here in the USA!
To all of you who have served in our military, thank you for your service! As that line goes "Freedom isn't free", no truer words could be spoken!
Seems things have been a bit quiet around here as of late, guess everyone is getting some range time in now that the nation as a whole is out of snowpack ;)!
Have a safe and enjoyable 4th! May the beer run cold, the barbecues be hot, and the fireworks be bright!


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