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Messages - SunriseTacticalGear

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1
Scott,

When it comes to turning and topstitching, try using a seam ripper to "pull" out the seam. I find pulling out around 6" at a time, then pressing the seam flat, then topstitching works quite well.

I can shoot a video and post on YT if anyone would be interested in this.

-Dan

2
Congratulations! Out of curiosity - are there more than  1 designers at EI or do you replace a lone person who left?

There are multiple.  I'm one of three.  Really looking forward to working with them, I discovered one of them designed one of my favorite packs of all times, so it's a little surreal to be working alongside people that have designed things that I own and absolutely love.

3
About 6 months ago we demolished the three bedrooms on our little 1000 square foot house, lived out of the front room for a while, and built an addition.  Has been an adventure.  Both my wife and I get dedicated sewing rooms.  We finished mine as quickly as we could...currently, Bergspitze Customs is the last knot on the end of my rope, having been laid off from my full time biochemistry job a month ago and my part time job (of 4 years) being converted to a full time job and given to someone else outside the organization this last week.  Glad to have sewing to fall back on, since other positions, short of flipping burgers, are few and far between right now in my area and we can't move until the house is done (and that would still suck to do after all this work).

So here's the first look at the new space.  Slightly over 300 square feet.  I converted half of a ping pong table into a cutting table with a large Rhino cutting mat on top.  That is attached to a fabric rack that I built from scraps from the construction, and another fabric rack sits underneath for the rest...amazing to see how much fabric has accumulated over the years.  My Consew 206RB-1 sits at the end of the table, raised up on risers to be at the same level as the table.  This provides extra support for larger objects.  Have a horse blanket dropped off for repair that is a perfect example of when that will be helpful.

Going around the room from there I have a large whiteboard (considering pulling it off the mount and putting it on the wall), rolling cart with small-parts bin that I have all my hardware sorted into, a Union Special 39500 overlock, Consew 29BL, Brother PR1000E embroidery machine, and a Juki LUH-520.  Back to the right is an L-shaped office desk with a hot knife cutter on the left side, a converted shoe rack holding all my narrow goods.  Under the narrow goods sits a blueprint cabinet that I got on the local classifieds for $40.  Will eventually convert all my pattern pieces to a sturdy option like chipboard and store them in there.

Tape on the walls marks the studs, so I can hang some more pegboard.  More photos to come.


4
Here's a chart with bobbin style/dimensions. You can measure yours and look for a match, then shop for that style.

-DC

http://hensewfiles.com/General%20Information/Bobbin%20Selection%20Information.pdf

5
Vendors and sources / Re: Pre wound bobbins
« on: November 05, 2017, 08:10:22 PM »
I Just ran a test with my new bobbins as compared to winding bobbins on the bobbin winder which is located on the top of the machine (juki 1900AH).
I confirmed my past results that I normally get around 65, 15/16", 45 stitch bar tacks with a bobbin that I wind myself. I was able to get between 130-140 bar tacks using the pre wound style.

This. 100% this.

I am sceptical of purchasing pre-wound bobbins. They are expensive, we wound as we went, and frankly didn't need them as we had enough "spare" bobbins for all our colours, AND mostly ran black bobbins.

So while I don't agree with purchasing pre-wound bobbins, I have to commend you on ignoring "tradition" and using a business mindset to see what suits you best. You've looked at it from a financial point of view... even your comment about being "distracted" while a normal bobbin winds, is a cost on business due to slight inefficiencies. Well done for analysing it, and working out what works best for YOUR situation. *insert thumbs up here*   ;)

This is akin to using lasers for cutting. More expensive up front, but potential cost saving in the long run. Different strokes for different folks.

6
We got a couple of good mannequins from a chain store going out of business at a local mall. They sold off all of their fixtures very inexpensively.

Note that if you want something on which to pattern clothing, those are usually called "dress forms". Dress forms come in many sizes and are made for draping and pattern making. Mannequins are usually a harder plastic and made for clothing display. Their dimensions are usually not realistic for pattern making. I'm just pointing that out since you said "for sizing purposes".

7
I've been using full body and torso mannequins for some time now. Some thoughts you may find useful:

- a white translucent torso without arms but with partial legs and the ability to stand it on a rotary platform (i.e. cheese plate) gives excellent results for product photography on a white background especially if you can place a lamp shining upwards in the crotch area. Partial legs are useful to display belts. Be sure to buy it in your Medium size - mine is a Small and some vests don't close properly on that size.

- a full size guy in flesh color is cool for static displays in the showroom or at a fair booth. Arms must be detachable because they will not be used most of the time. I bought a Large/Long (188cm) and a Medium/Medium (182cm) but didn't account for the stand and shoe height, 188cm is a giant Crossfitter in my showroom... Go for 182 and 175cm in a straight standing position. Having those two will allow you to try on your vests/belts on two customer sizes and take full gear pictures. Tape all the joints because they will come undone when dressing/undressing frequently.

8
Off Topic / Happy 4th!
« on: July 04, 2017, 09:54:27 AM »
Hey all,

Happy Independence Day to all of you here in the USA!
To all of you who have served in our military, thank you for your service! As that line goes "Freedom isn't free", no truer words could be spoken!
Seems things have been a bit quiet around here as of late, guess everyone is getting some range time in now that the nation as a whole is out of snowpack ;)!
Have a safe and enjoyable 4th! May the beer run cold, the barbecues be hot, and the fireworks be bright!

cheers,
Dan

9
Packs and bags / Punisher EDC backpack
« on: July 01, 2017, 09:46:23 AM »
Hey guys, I´d like to show you my latest backpack (vastly inspired by CDH-tac backpacks :) )
Material is 500d MC black Cordura
- backpack has two compartments - for laptop/hydration bladder and main compartment
- laptop compartment is padded
- main compartment has two mesh pockets and pals for organizing things
- there is one outer pocket and one mesh pocket in "beavertail"

looking forward to your opinion...


















10
Introductions / Re: Hi from Denmark, Orion system
« on: April 29, 2017, 04:11:34 PM »
Verdande.eu I had with a partner is closed and I have gone solo with my own company.
I am still in the process of making shop and doing all the groundwork to build up the new company.


11
Hi guys, just received some new toys. Dürkopp Adler 867 Classic is new toy along with Juki LU-2810-7 but after a quick test its much more better even it has same features.
869 is Cylinder Bed with binding attachement. It could work also as classic Cylinder Bed with triple feed. If someone need any info about those machines just ask me.



12
Everything else / Re: Leatherwork
« on: April 04, 2017, 06:21:52 AM »
A couple photos of my latest leather work. First is a field notes cover, with my logo on one side, and an engraving of the streets of downtown Pittsburgh (my home city) on the other.







The other is another wallet. Black on tan this time.











13
Everything else / Re: Sling Prototype
« on: February 15, 2017, 06:59:00 PM »
Well, over a year later and we decided to machine our own slider. It took a lot of development and testing to get the right blend of "bite" and ease of adjusting with the 1" webbing. I think these are version eight or something. No pull cords or tabs. These are two prototype finalists.

- Will be available in every colour we offer
- Made with 1" webbing
- Very lightweight
- Machined aluminum buckle
- Welded steel link point
- Double bar tacked (front and back)

Which profile do you guys like better?




14
Workspace, tools, machinery, and manufacturing / Juki LU-2828A-7
« on: February 14, 2017, 11:25:47 AM »
Brand new Juki LU-2828A-7 arriving from www.nickosew.com.  Internal clamps and trimmer optimized for minimized thread on start and stop tack.





Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk


15
Bergspitze, could you tell us how you pattern helmet covers with tape? I have the hardest time doing that with the muslin method as the surface is slippery and non-spheric/irregular/bumpy.

Sure thing, I don't have many pictures of the process, so hopefully this makes sense.  I use blue masking/painters tape (doesn't leave a residue) in small sections to cover the entire object.  When it is completely covered, I figure out where I want my seams to go, and then cut the tape off as such.  Lay the panels out flat, and create a paper pattern from those.  I adjust for symmetry, make a mock up, do final adjustments, and then sew the real thing.  More often than not (as is the case below) I have to make a few small adjustments after the first functional prototype is done.  This process is particularly useful for helmet covers, but I do the same process for form-fitting projects for all sorts of things.

I do have one photo of the Team Wendy cover pattern making in progress, and then the final result of the first attempt. Although you can see the sides don't quite fit perfectly (stretch fabric didn't quite form as anticipated) you can also kind of see how the individual panels are cut apart to be the stretch/mesh/etc. sections.  Next time I have to do a custom cover that requires another pattern to be made, I'll be sure to document it better and make a post about how I do it.




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