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Messages - Misadventure Gear

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Materials science / Re: DCF/Cuben Fiber
« on: July 24, 2018, 07:29:53 PM »
I've not used it myself, but the DIY/MYOG sections of Whiteblaze and BackpackingLite forums will have some info for you. Use tape on dynema (cuben fiber) instead of sewing it. I'm looking forward to seeing what you make.


Also dont try to bind right angles. Its impossible without special machine (I mean, impossible to make it look good). Cut the binding tape on the corner, then bind another straight side, binding on top of the first tape. See some typical magazine pouches with external binding, bottom corners

Binding right angle corners isn't hard, or require a special machine. It just takes a few minutes to learn how, and a little practice.  To do it, when you approach the corner, continue 2 stitches past where you want to turn, towards the edge of the fabric and into the seam allowance. Then reverse 2.5 stitches, and stop the needle just as it's beginning to descend. Raise the foot.  Turn your work 90 degrees in the binder, and use a seam ripper or other sharp pointed tool to get the fold in the binding tape how you like it. With just a little practice, you'll find it doesn't take much fiddling at all. Plunge the needle to hold it all in place, lower the foot, and sew onwards.

Workspace, tools, machinery, and manufacturing / Re: Hot Knife Pad?
« on: May 27, 2018, 12:01:43 AM »
Tempered glass (think glass shelf from a cupboard) over an Olfa cutting mat allows for measuring and cutting in one operation.

This is what I do as well. My cutting mat lives under my glass sheet, and I can easily pull it out of I'm cutting something with my Olfa.

Workspace, tools, machinery, and manufacturing / Re: Hot Knife Pad?
« on: May 19, 2018, 11:48:29 PM »
I also started with a 12"x12" ceramic tile. Then I scored a free tempered glass, 6'x2' from an old desk being scraped. The larger cutting area is great, but the tile is cheap and easy to come by.  Freecycled glass can be had from a variety of sources..... Old desk, coffee table, an old glass shower door.... Keep your eyes peeled and you'll find something soon enough.

I found my Tacsew T111-155 on Craiglist for $500. New on Sewing Gold, they're under $1000, and can be cheaply set up with a servo. It's pretty equal to your current machine, but with reverse. My used machine has worked flawlessly since I got it 7 or 8 years ago. I did have to replace the needle bar after I got ham-fisted with the needle set screw once, and stripped it. However, it was a fairly straightforward repair, which I did myself.

I purchased a used Consew 227r cylinder arm waking foot from Nick-o-Sew about 5yrs ago for $1000 plus shipping. I bought the head only, to save $$$ and because I already had an old table and servo motor. $300 and almost a month to ship it on a pallet from Pennsylvania to Hawaii by truck and boat. I also had to fabricate a tabletop for it, which really wasn't difficult since that machine didn't have an oil pan or need to be routed out. The machine was well used, and to this day, loves to break the top thread reguarily, no matter how much I try to adjust it. My intent at purchase was to make it my dedicated binder. Now, because of the thread breakage, I only use it occaisionally, when I can't bind something well on my flatbed. I also learned that it can take practice to feed something through the CA and get straight stitch lines. One of these days, I'm going to make a removable U-shaped tabletop so that it can double as both a flatbed and CA machine.  I also have a 70's era, all-metal Kenmore cylinder arm zigzag domestic s stitcher (found on CL for $40) that I use for some clothing and lightweight work, and actually sees a lot more use than the big Consew.  Sometimes, I think that I prefer the side-loading bobbin of a Class 15 machine like the Tacsew T111-155 and the little Kenmore, and that I've never really bonded with any of the drop-in bobbin, Class 66 machines I've owned over the years..... But that's purely subjective, and I'm sure someone else will say they love the drop-in bobbins better.

I've bought a couple other industrial machines over the years.....all used off CL. They've all required a bit of cleaning, tuning, and adjusting.... Some more than others. Luckily I'm good with tools. My advice to you, is to be willing to spend what you need to, to get the machine you like, with the features you're looking for, in the best or newest condition you can. If your existing machine works well for 95% of what you're sewing, and you're just missing reverse and a servo motor, get yourself another modern flatbed, and setup the old machine to be a dedicated binder. You'll speed up production, and can always add a cylinder arm  machine later. However, if the time has come where you need a cylinder arm, based on the work you're doing often, then go that route. Decide ahead of time if you need features such as a bigger bobbin (possibly at the cost of a larger diameter arm), walking foot feed, drop-in or side-loading bobbin, presser foot lift height, etc to narrow down the list of machines to choose from.

Pouches / Re: Ugly aid bag inserts
« on: April 10, 2018, 12:52:28 AM »
If the binding tape is moving around in the binder, you may not be using the right size tape....i.e. 7/8" wide tape in a one inch binder. More likely, the mouth opening of the folder is too large for thickness of your binding tape, allowing the tape to wander. I had one folder that I couldn't get to work well until I used some small pieces of blue painters tape to make the U-shaped mouth of the folder (where the binding tape exits the folder) narrower. On the other hand, that particular folder works great when I'm using  thicker webbing to bind with instead of the usual 5038 gosgrain. Also, make sure the folder is as close as possible to the needle. You might need to get a foot without a "toe", which is pretty common.

I started with a 15-91 made in 1947. Great little machine. I tried using the binding foot that is a one-piece foot.... It sucked badly. Then I switched to a generic folder that screws on to the right of the needle with better results. It was still finicky though. After a while, I got better with it. Just hang in there.

Pouches / Re: Ugly aid bag inserts
« on: April 08, 2018, 11:46:33 PM »
Yup.... You need more practice on your binding.  ;D.  I'm guessing you're using one of the generic folders to bind with.... That's what I use anyway. Are you also using a binding foot on your machine?
One that looks like this? It really will make your binder work SO much better!!!  Also set your binder to sew closer to the edge of the tape. You're centered, which makes it all wonky. I usually set my binder up to sew only 1/8" from the edge of the tape (not the fold side). Using the foot I showed, you just push the edge guide of the folder right up against the foot, and it will be perfect. With a little more practice, you'll be rocking on the binding.

Introductions / Re: G'day from Australia
« on: February 03, 2018, 04:43:29 PM »
Welcome to the forum. Looking forward to seeing your work.

My mods weren't anything fancy. I just used scraps I had lying around. The base was a piece of 2x10. I routed out a slot for the cutter to sit flush. On the right, I routed another slot for the yardstick to sit in, also flush. I also cut and routed some short lengths of 2x4 to support the yardstick and webbing. I mix and match these as needed to clamp a short piece of aluminum angle iron where I need to set my length stop. I also used some more angle iron to make a backstop so my cuts are perpendicular. In use, I feed the webbing in from the left ( after giving it several minutes to heat up). I lower the blade for a few seconds and I get a nice clean cut. The cutter gets very hot, and the nomex flight gloves help protect my hands around the hot blade.

No thanks to Photobucket, I had to open an Imgur account. Hopefully, these will show.

Novatech makes some fantastic hot cutters. I bought one that looks like this...  It was manufactured by Lebec, and I found him very easy to deal with. I modified mine to extend the handle towards the user, and rotate it 90° so your hand is further away from the heat source. I also built a wider base which incorporates a ruler and stop for accurate repeatable cuts. I also got a second cutter set up to the holes in belts and dog collars. It was custom modified by the manufacturer at purchase to be able to swap between 1/4" and 1/8"  hole burners spaced 1 inch apart.  I found the hot cutters to be a great addition to my shop, but I'm also not a full time user. If I were, I'd go the automatic cutter route, where I can set it up and walk away while it does it's thing.

Introductions / Re: Hello from Alabama
« on: January 13, 2018, 04:20:39 PM »

Packs and bags / Re: Squish’mups: Compression Panel Day Pack
« on: December 03, 2017, 01:03:16 PM »
Sweet pack!!! I'm also guilty of overthinking things sometimes when it comes to designing in features. After a bit of use, I often find I'm using it in different ways than I thought I would when building it. I noticed you mentioned wanting to shed some weight on your next version by eliminating some webbing.... Switching to a lighter cordura, or other pack material can help a lot. I've made a few with a cordura bottom for abrasion, and a coated ripstop for the other panels that were very light and still reasonably durable. Love those hand-stitched bartacks, BTW!!!

Also even though this is more a sewing forum, I would love to see pics of your stove. I've had a lot of fun over the years making alcohol stoves and windscreens, and I'm interested in what you made... Finally one last thought.... You can also free up some space and weight by switching out your ground sheet for a 2mil plastic painters drop cloth. Cheap and easy to cut one to fit your desired shape/size, they are surprisingly durable. They're also lighter than a similar sized piece of Tyvek house wrap.

Asset exchange / Re: WTB: Cardboard tubes for fabric storage
« on: November 25, 2017, 01:47:10 PM »
I use PVC pipes to store my rolls vertically. It's been a few years since I made some, and forgot exactly what size, but I believe they were 1.5" diameter. I checked out the various tubes, and found that the 1" diameter tubes fit snuggly inside the 1.5"...... They might have been different schedules (thickness of the tube walls) to fit right. I bought 5 ten foot lengths of the larger, and a single 10 footer of the smaller diameter. The 1.5" pipes were cut in half (60"), and the smaller was cut into 6" lengths, and the edges sanded smooth. I then used a hammer and block of wood to pound the 6" stubs into the ends of the 60" pipes. This made the most efficient use of the 10ft pipes, while still giving me roll tubes that were wider than 60".  I also made some by cutting a 10ft pipe to 72 inches, and then using the 4ft tubes for narrower fabrics, and/or using a butt-connector fitting to piece together longer tubes. The ones made using the butt-connectors were harder to roll straight because of the uneven diameter, but they worked.

Introductions / Re: New position
« on: November 25, 2017, 01:21:07 PM »
Congrats on the new job!

Materials science / Re: Mil-spec binding tape for curves
« on: September 21, 2017, 10:53:35 AM »
Keep the radius of the curves at least 1.5x the width of your binding tape. 2x will bind much nicer. I took some scrap HDPE and cut a 2" radius curve on one corner, and a 1.5" radius on the opposite corner, for the 1inch tape I use. It's very handy tool when making patterns or marking out a corner for cutting.

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