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Messages - SunriseTacticalGear

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1
Right on, I just purchased 3 sheets to experiment with.
Do I need a heat press to activate the adhesive?
Do you think there would be a benefit of using a thicker laminated fabric for the base color? For more stiffness?
Thanks, Scott

2
Introductions / Re: New to the forum, Shaw Concepts
« on: May 24, 2019, 10:05:56 AM »
Welcome aboard,
It looks like you are using your time in the service wisely.
Let me know if I can help you in any way.
Thank you for your Service.
Scott

3
Asset exchange / Re: #9 Reverse Tan or Coyote Sliders?
« on: April 23, 2019, 01:55:24 PM »
Not YKk, but Gerald Swartz carries #9 reverse sliders for Ideal brand zipper coil.
Good stuff.
Scott

4
Materials science / Re: Need advise on zippers for backpacks
« on: April 04, 2019, 12:54:57 PM »
Research coil zipper and chain zipper, that will help you decide which style and size will be best for your project.
Scott

5
From my understanding, Lightburn is an American, upgrade control software for Chinese lasers using the Ruida based controller.
Which offers some design elements, but is mainly for setting up your file for cutting. I could be off on my assessment, so if someone has more to add, please do.
A 40 watt plus tube should be plenty of power to cut fabric and laminates on a CO2 laser, more power will cut faster. You will run tests to determine your power level and speed for each material.
I do my design work using a 2d cad program, then import it as a DXF format into the laser using its software. From that point I easily set up my nesting, speed and power levels.
Once you start to cut with a laser you won’t look back.
Scott

6
Materials science / Re: source dark camo green thread and question
« on: April 01, 2019, 03:21:54 PM »
Sorry for the delay, but The Thread Exchange seems to have some Camo Green 483 in 4 oz spools.
Size 69 bonded nylon.
Scott

7
Alex,
You gottta love customers like this.
Doing a quick Google image search I see plate carriers with Coyote brown 498 accents as well as Multicam on Multicam. From the pictures it looks like a Tan 499 thread for the MC on MC.
With that being said, I have been using A & E Tex 70 Tan 499 for years and every time I buy some it is always slightly different then the last.
If it was me I would ask the customer to provide a piece of gear that they are trying to match then compare against your thread color samples.
Scott

8
Nice idea..... My K.I.S.S. solution is to wrap the tail of thread halfway around the bobbin and tug firmly. The thread will seat itself in between the other thread on the bobbin and hold tight. When it's time to load your bobbin case, simply drop it in as normal. Pulling out a tail for the top thread to grab will unseat it from the threads, and you're ready to go. Same technique will also work for cones of thread if you were it around the base where the thread meets the cone.
I have been doing this little trick on my bobbins for years, when I first seen you share this information. I have been using rubber bands on my cones, which can sometimes be a pain in the butt. I will try your cone trick and see how that works. Thanks for sharing those little nuggets.
Scott

9
I have the same machine and am running A&E T-70 through a #21 needle, between 800-1200 SPM?
Along with thread tension as stated above, I had great results by replacing my hook with a new Juki branded one. It costs a few dollars but my stitch was noticeably better.
I also give the machine a good cleaning in the hook area as well as cleaning the gunk out from under the bobbin case spring when I notice problems.
Scott

10
Concept, design, and engineering / Re: 3d printed foot
« on: December 06, 2018, 06:34:30 PM »
Great idea!
I assume that you’re dimensioned for height are the same.
I wonder if the foot has too much flex, you may have to build up the dimensions to see if that helps.
Scott

11
Workspace, tools, machinery, and manufacturing / Re: Bartacker jigs
« on: October 26, 2018, 03:57:36 PM »
Very nice idea, my machine just has pen marks scribbled on the deck and then I “eye ball” it. LOL
Keep up the good work,
Scott

12
I’m out of the shop this week, but as I recall the hold down bar is located between the blade and the drive roller.
One more thing to consider is an “auto retract” function that pulls the webbing back, away from the heat of the blade after a batch cut. This keeps the webbing from melting while parked between batches.
Scott

13
I had a chance to look at my Sheffield webbing cutter and the heat is set to 600 degrees C which works great for webbing, including 2” Scuba.
One thing I noticed is that there is a spring loaded hold down bar that comes down first to hold the webbing, then releases after the cut. I think it keeps the webbing from sticking to the blade.
Food for thought.
Scott

14
Events, news releases... that sort of thing / Re: IFAI Expo October 2018
« on: September 17, 2018, 01:33:41 PM »
My wife and I are attending, we would really enjoy linking up with members here to visit.
Thanks, Scott

15
Materials science / Re: Foam Foam Foam
« on: August 30, 2018, 06:22:16 PM »
Don't know if it helps but this is where we get our foam, nice people but shipping will get you.

https://foamforyou.com/volara.html

if it matters their volara is not Berry
Kord, or anyone else.
Is there a friendly source for 1/8” foam that is Berry compliant?
I haven’t done that kind of work yet, but want to get my ducks in a row, to be ready if that need arises.
Thanks, Scott

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