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Messages - ultimind

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Asset exchange / Re: WTB: 1" Right Angle Binder for Juki DNU-1541S
« on: May 04, 2018, 07:19:35 PM »
To get the best binding performance on a 1541, you need to get the mouth of the binder as close to the needle as possible. To do this the binder is best mounted to a modified needle plate, which is used in conjunction with a modified feed dog and special binding feet.

This is the setup as I have it on my 111W machine. I swap all the above mentioned components to get my right angle binder going. It's a solid 6-7 minutes to swap the set. And depending on how the machine is behaving that day it can be much longer to get everything dialed in just right. And I'm probably doing the most difficult types of bindings on the worst possible machine - interior compound curves on a flatbed machine. It's challenging to say the least. A dedicated cylinder arm binding machine is certainly on the short list of equipment to invest in next. In the meantime I've gotta use the best machines that I have access to.


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Asset exchange / WTB: 1" Right Angle Binder for Juki DNU-1541S
« on: May 04, 2018, 09:38:22 AM »
Looking for a source for a decent 1" right angle binder for the Juki DNU-1541S. There's a couple on eBay for $119 but I'm not sure how good/no good those are. If anyone's got one laying around I'd be happy to buy it off you!

Thanks!
David

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Bob at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine or Peter at Globe Sewing in Cleveland have your solutions for you. No need to get it shipped up from Tennessee. Peterís got a warehouse full of machines ready to go. Prices very much like Nick-O-Sew. And best part is you can walk away with a machine on the spot. Iím in Columbus and as far as I know Globe is the closest industrial shop to me. I picked up a servo and various attachments from him a few weeks ago.

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The office / Re: Packaging for shipping soft goods
« on: April 30, 2018, 08:49:01 AM »
Boxes only from now on. I've had poly bags get cut, almost as if they were intentionally slashed with a box cutter to investigate what's inside. Product got damaged, and that cost me money. So I use boxes, and customers pay the extra cost. I'm not in business to lose money on damaged product(and reputation due to sh** like this happening). If you're in the USA the USPS flat rate boxes help keep shipping costs easily estimated.

Thank you, This is good insight. Definitely makes me re-think the poly bags.

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The office / Packaging for shipping soft goods
« on: April 26, 2018, 07:43:02 AM »
As of right now everything I'm producing tends to fit inside of Size 5 (10.5" x 15") padded mailers and those tend to work out just fine. I've got one more box of them to go through and I'd like to look at what other options are out there. My finished goods are flexible and lightweight and looking at how some of the mainstream bag companies are shipping their goods, I've seen a number of them using these poly mailers https://www.amazon.com/Metronic-Envelopes-Shipping-Waterproof-Tear-proof/dp/B00OLOGXWU/ Which are 1/4 the price of the bubble mailers and seem like a good value for shipping softer stuff. I've even gotten a Timbuk2 backpack direct from them shipped in one of these types of mailers. Theirs had some nice artwork on the outside of the packaging that was a complete bike map of San Francisco - nice touch.

Would love to hear what others are using to ship their finished goods, and whether domestic/international shipping plays a role in what you choose. Thanks!


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Asset exchange / WTB: 2Ē Loop in Multicam Arid or Tan
« on: April 24, 2018, 05:25:12 AM »
Iím looking for a small amount (1-2yds is plenty) of 2Ē loop in Multicam Arid or any solid that is a good match such as Tan. Thanks!

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I went to my local dealer today and spent some time trying out a variety of preowned flatbed machines as well as brand new ones. Even an old LU562 with a servo felt far and away better than my 111W with a clutch.

The more I research it the more I realize that the cylinder arm and post bed machines both have their own very specific uses but neither is a good general purpose machine. I'm going to take baby steps and throw a servo motor on my 111W this week. We'll see how much of an improvement that makes.

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I wonder if I get more for my money if I spend that same $1000 on a preowned machine from a reputable dealer like Nick-o-sew or the like. The P1206RB does seem like a good machine.

9
I currently have a Singer 111W113 with clutch motor which does a decent job but I'm starting to ponder what my upgrade path looks like.  I've added a nicely restored Singer 201-2 for doing lightweight sub-assembly ops and that's drastically improved my productivity and efficiency. For main seam construction and binding I'd like to move to something that's got a reverse gear, servo, bigger bobbin and ideally something that is better for binding. I have a proper right angle binder and feet set for the 111W but compound curves are a bit challenging on a flatbed.

Considering I'm a hobbyist gearmaker who is only doing a little bit of for-profit work, would my dollars be better spent adding a cylinder arm or swapping the 111W for something like a Juki LU563? I occasionally have a access to a 1541S so I know how good things can be when you've got a proper modern machine but I think the 1541S is going to be out of my price range for now. Would love to stay under $1000. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

10
Introductions / Re: Hello from Thailand
« on: April 13, 2018, 12:48:46 PM »
Welcome! Your belts look great.  8)

11
Concept, design, and engineering / Re: Prototype Making.
« on: April 12, 2018, 11:32:56 AM »
I'm just a hobbyist gearmaker but here's my design process. Pencil sketch first to work out the general idea and shape and then Adobe Illustrator to draft all the panel pieces and lay them out to efficiently use as little material as possible. Nesting pieces is an art in and of itself. There's softgoods manufacturing software that costs like $10k that's only job is to nest pieces to minimize material waste. I just use my brain and move stuff around until it's arranged as tightly as possible.

When it comes to getting patterns made I've had the local Kinkos or Officemax print out large format full size pattern pieces that I cut out and trace onto pattern paper. (Heavy manila kraft paper). If I'm being extra cheap i'll print all the pieces at home and just tile them together. Pain in the ass, but it's free instead of paying Kinkos $8 to print it.

I usually sew the first one out of scraps or 2nd quality materials. I won't bind anything on the first go, so that it's easy to rip everything apart and start over or make adjustments to pieces as I go.

Or.... get a laser cutter. It vastly speeds up prototyping since you eliminate all the cutting and tracing and printing steps.

12
Pouches / Re: Ugly aid bag inserts
« on: April 09, 2018, 10:47:43 AM »
Keep a little tension on the binding tape as itís feeding into the attachment. Iíve found when I was experiencing the bottom side moving around on me that applying a little tension made it feed perfectly. My bindings were infinitely better after that. And now Iím looking for a cheap dedicated cylinder arm machine for binding because itís a huge pain to change the feeddogs and feet on my 111W every time I need to bind.

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Materials science / Re: Mixing thread sizes - Top & Bobbin
« on: April 08, 2018, 03:42:07 PM »
Thanks all for the insight. Hadnít considered using Kevlar thread. Thatís an interesting way to go about it. I would think the scissor dulling would make most shy away from it. Iíve been using a lot of Dyneema gridstop lately and the UHMWPE fibers are killer on my scissors.

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Materials science / Mixing thread sizes - Top & Bobbin
« on: April 06, 2018, 09:58:51 AM »
I've put together several packs lately that have contrasting topstitching (such as along a zipper) in T-90 bonded nylon with a T-70 bonded nylon bobbin thread. My non-scientific testing shows that the stitch is perfectly centered in the material and it holds up as well as using T-70 top and bottom.

Are there any negatives to mixing top thread and bottom thread of different size? T-90 and T-70 work well so far but could I get up to T-135 topstitch with T-70 bobbin?

I'm sure there are large scale efficiency problems with doing so but I'm a one-man, part time hobbyist operation. I want to have the ability to have a nice prominent topstitch but without the hassle of having to have a bunch of different bobbins especially for a color that I may only use one time. I use enough black T-70 to buy 16oz cones but I'd prefer to get 2-4oz cones when I need something like bright purple or neon orange topstitch.

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Everything else / Re: toiletry / shave kit
« on: January 31, 2018, 09:46:03 PM »
I have two kinds I like to make. Flat pouches and simple boxy dopp kits. Made boxy ones for everyone in our wedding party. The flat ones are a great way to use up leftover scraps. Make a tube, decide whether you want the zip on the top or middle and sew it shut. I've got so many bizarre combinations of liners and exteriors.



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