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Messages - Gear Dynamics

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Added 1" fixed cobra buckles, and 400D MultiCam, Ripstop (AOR2, MultiCam), 1" 17337 Wolf Grey

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Asset exchange / Re: WTB: Murdock 1.75" Jacquard Woven Webbing
« on: May 14, 2018, 11:46:08 AM »
I can help. I’ll fire you an email.

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Introductions / Re: Welcome from Canada
« on: May 08, 2018, 10:56:06 PM »
Welcome!

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Materials science / Re: 55301 Webbing and Suggested Needle Type
« on: May 08, 2018, 10:55:11 PM »
I see. When you change direction on webbing, going perpendicular to the warp yarns, parallel with the weft, the top tension appears to loose its strength. What happens when you crank down the top tension? Are you able to tighten it enough to pull that bottom thread up into the webbing? It looks better on the far left stitching? What happened there? If the webbing is really dense, you could try a larger needle size. Bigger hole will make more room for the thread. Out of curiosity, what make is the webbing?

Google a bobbin drop test.

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Everything else / Re: PALS Adapter Hardware
« on: May 08, 2018, 01:32:30 PM »
Are your pics hosted on another site, like imgur?

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Materials science / Re: 55301 Webbing and Suggested Needle Type
« on: May 07, 2018, 10:50:02 PM »
So we’re looking at the bottom side in your picture? How heavy is your bobbin tension?

You should set that so that if you were to put a full bobbin in the bobbin case, pull out 10-12” of thread and let the case dangle, it should just support its own weight. If you raise your hand slightly and then lower it, stopping fairly abruptly, about 6” of thread should come out of the case. Once that is set with the current thread weight, only adjust tension on the top thread, in order to strike a balance.

I would also make sure your top thread path is correct, and you’re not skipping something. Make sure your top tension mechanism is working. Thread the machine and lower the the presser foot. Pull the top thread and you should feel quite a bit of resistance. Raise the foot and pull again and it should pull freely.

I don’t think this is a needle size issue. Usually have thread balance issues if the hole the needle is making is far too large for the thread size. We use size 21 with 69 thread as well, but you should be able to get away with smaller needles. The denser and thicker the material, the bigger the needle you should use, or you may incounter skipped stitches.


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Vendors and sources / Re: 1.75” MultiCam Jaquard Webbing
« on: May 07, 2018, 10:26:58 PM »
We’ve got MultiCam and a limited amount of Ranger Green available if anyone needs a roll or two.

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Introductions / Re: hello from scotland
« on: May 05, 2018, 03:59:42 PM »
Welcome!

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Asset exchange / Re: WTB: 1" Right Angle Binder for Juki DNU-1541S
« on: May 05, 2018, 08:48:07 AM »
This is the setup as I have it on my 111W machine. I swap all the above mentioned components to get my right angle binder going. It's a solid 6-7 minutes to swap the set. And depending on how the machine is behaving that day it can be much longer to get everything dialed in just right. And I'm probably doing the most difficult types of bindings on the worst possible machine - interior compound curves on a flatbed machine. It's challenging to say the least. A dedicated cylinder arm binding machine is certainly on the short list of equipment to invest in next. In the meantime I've gotta use the best machines that I have access to.

If you contact a good attachment company, they should be able to help you out. We had the exact one from the picture above made by B&J Attachments (http://www.bjattachments.com). They might be cheaper for you as they are in Canada. I wouldn’t waste your time trying to find something on eBay. Expect to pay a few hundred dollars. You could also reach out to Tennessee Attchemnt Co. they seem pretty reputable. Although we’ve never bought anything from them.

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Asset exchange / Re: WTB: 1" Right Angle Binder for Juki DNU-1541S
« on: May 04, 2018, 12:59:49 PM »
With the 1541 or similar machines, in order to get the mouth of the binder as close as possible to the needle, you need a cut away needle plate. The feed dog also needs to be cut away, to accomodate the depth of the binder mouth. Because the binder can only be mounted in a "fixed" position in relation to the needle, and the nature of how the machine feeds with it's walking feet, it will never be in the optimal feeding position. Below is a 1541 set up as a binding machine. People do set these machines up like this and they will work OK.



In my opinion, the most ideal set up is one where the binder can be made to move in unison with the machine as it feeds. This offers the most consistent presentation of the binding tape as it leaves the mouth of the binder, and the work is immediately under the needle for the next stitch. Certain flatbed machines can be set up this way, but more common are cylinder arm machines. Some quick googling results below.

Flatbed:

Cylinder Arm:


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Asset exchange / Re: WTB: 1" Right Angle Binder for Juki DNU-1541S
« on: May 04, 2018, 10:24:39 AM »
To set a 1541 up properly, you’ll need more than just a bolt-on binder. I would contact an attachment company that will make you something professional grade. eBay is usually just junk from China.

To get the best binding performance on a 1541, you need to get the mouth of the binder as close to the needle as possible. To do this the binder is best mounted to a modified needle plate, which is used in conjunction with a modified feed dog and special binding feet.

Unfortunately the 1541 is not an ideal choice to set up as a binder.

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What’s the colour code?

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Congratulations Kory. Glad to hear the good news. I hope it all works out well for you and your family!

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Asset exchange / Re: WTB: some camo green 5038 and 55301
« on: April 24, 2018, 10:10:33 AM »
No worries. If you need more, just let me know.

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