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Topics - Fouinard

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1
Materials science / 92 and 135 threads
« on: August 28, 2016, 11:26:13 AM »
Hi guys,

I've been playing around with #92 and #135 threads (with #23 needle) and I've noticed it tends to fray a lot more than #69. As soon as I sew again above previous stitches it tends to cut it if the needle doesn't fall right above a previous hole. I guess those sizes aren't made for pals stitching but is that normal behavior or just poor quality thread? The 135 is from A&E but dates back to 2000...

Cheers

2
Hi,

There are several ways I can think of when it comes to strap mouting (don't know if that's the correct term).

- Directly sewn at the top of the pack


- Sewn at the top of the pack with some webbing in-between


- Sewn lower on the backpanel with or without webbing in-between

I get that when you sew the straps lower on the backpanel you can use load lifters, webbing in-between are used to allow for more flexibility, and sometimes more adjustment when it's not fixed.

What are your thoughts on the different options available, in term of comfort or ease of design? (whether you are making it or using it)

Cheers!

3
Packs and bags / One strap EDC backpack
« on: August 21, 2016, 07:59:52 AM »
Hi there,

Here is a one strap backpack made for EDC use, around 20 L. One big compartment with laptop sleeve and some zipped pockets. One flat front compartment (AIII like), and a hidden compartment (covered in loop) beneath it with the opening right under the bottom molle row. It closed with a zipper and some hook&loop to keep it flat. Side curved pocket was a bit pain in the ass to sew but I'm quite happy with the result, last time I made one similar was on the greenzone hydration pack and the result was quite messy...

Here are some pics:












I'm definitely not a big fan of one strap packs but I'm quite happy with the overall design, I may make it again with classic shoulder straps...

Cheers!

4
Concept, design, and engineering / Single strap backpack
« on: June 07, 2016, 05:01:47 PM »
Hi,

I'm in the process of making a single strap backpack and wanted to know if one of you either have already made some or used some (which I haven't).
I've spent lots of time on google searching for references and found that some of them have the strap right in the middle of the pack and others have it on one side and don't know which one is best.

Currently the backpack I'm designing has this shape with strap placement in red :


I can also offset the strap placement from the top, hidden under a 2" webbing, or maybe make the top of the pack more flat and not semicircle so the strap base isn't that much curved.

What are your thought on this, or your experience using a bag like this?

Thanks!
Remi

5
Asset exchange / WTB: 1" 55301 2-sided Greenzone
« on: June 06, 2016, 01:50:54 PM »
Hi,

I'm looking for a roll (or partial) of 1" 55301 2-sided greenzone. I can get it from Texcel but I cannot afford to take 2 extra rolls to meet their minimums of 3 at the moment. So if someone is placing an order with them, or potentially has a spare one I'd appreciate!

Thanks in advance!
Remi

6
Packs and bags / Typhon cabin bag
« on: May 28, 2016, 02:46:30 PM »
Hey there,

Here is a bag sized to comply with IATA regs, 55x40x20 cm made out of 1000D Typhon & Beige litelok lining with #10 zipper on the outside and #8 on the inside. Nothing really fancy except for the fashion camo ;)





Cheers!

7
Packs and bags / Multicam Holdall
« on: May 14, 2016, 05:49:15 AM »
Hi!

Well it's been a long time since I haven't posted anything. Here is a holdall I made for a friend, 42 L, 55x35x25 cm, small enough to be used as a cabin luggage. There are open compartments on each side + zippered pockets. Contrasting is made with hypalon 16oz (thicker I wouldn't have been able to fold it correctly). The lining is made with desert tiger stripe ny/co ripstop, there are also 2 zippered pockets on each interior sides, and a "sleeve" for a stiffener on the bottom where I put a sheet of 1mm HDPE.









Cheers!

8
Hey!

Ok guys, I had a crazy idea this week... Trying to make an "addon" for the straight stitch sewing machine to convert it to a programmable tacker by attaching it to the table!
Still at the stage of reflection, but I played a bit with 3d software to validate the idea with some coding... And here's the result in video:
http://sendvid.com/jtrsbpxi



The purpose is to be able to load some pattern with positions and move the fabric as a tacker would do. The software should be pretty straightforward now that I made the cartesian/polar coordinates conversion with offset for the arm length etc. Still remain the issues of synchronising the machine servomotor with the fabric movements and actually making the parts to hold and move the fabric. I'm thinking of doing so with 2 stepper motors and asking a friend who owns a CNC machine for the mechanical parts... And since the servomotor got a needle positionner that can drive the needle up/down and detect the position of the wheel I hope to be able to hack it so the software can control it...

Or course the patterns would be unlimited... Just need to take some time to list the points position
http://sendvid.com/nwhizu1w

Next step is to make some test with the servomotor :)

9
Hi there!

I'm moving my shop into a bigger room, and since I'm tired of tracing / cutting fabric on the living floor, ruining all my jeans knees, I'd like to get a "propper" cutting table.
I want to make at least 150/160 cm (5 ft) wide to be able to work on the full width of the fabric, and maybe 100/150 cm (3 or 5 ft) in the other direction so I can trace large pieces, I don't think I'll need more than 150 cm. Regarding the table height I'm not really sure, maybe 100 or 110 cm, so I don't bend to much...

Now the tricky part, the table material, I'm not sure about what to use. If I could use a roller cutter directly on it, it would be perfect but I don't know if that's possible without damaging it too much and keeping its costs to a minimum. I've seen a lot of shops with tables made out of hardboard, other looks like laminated. Another solution would be to fix several large self healing cutting mats on it...

Regarding self healing stuff I found this product/video that seems to be very interesting :
Though it still looks like a bit smooth to trace with the fabric on it...

What are you using in your shops? Any advices?

Cheers!

10
Asset exchange / WTB: 6" elastic in black
« on: May 22, 2015, 04:15:40 AM »
Hi,

I'm in need of minimum 2 yards of 6" wide elastic in black, but preferably I would take 5 or 10 yds. If someone here has some to sell or know a place where I can find it by the yard (really no need for a full roll).

Thanks in advance!
Remi

11
Packs and bags / 32L Backpack
« on: May 05, 2015, 04:53:42 AM »
Hi there,

Me again... I'm on a backpack frenzy period ^^

Here is a ~32L backpack (55x30x20 cm / 22x12x8"), made out of 1000D on the outside and litelok on the inside. I tried to put pockets everywhere I can without adding extra pieces on the outside, though some of them are rather small (side ones). The shoulder straps are rather thick (2 layers of 1cm - 3/8" plastazote) it's a request so... On the inside backpanel I made the same system as the last one to access the backpanel padding and hdpe sheet (I added a sleeve for an aluminum stay - not visible). Again all zippers are #9 YKK chain with Ideal sliders (there will be paracord addition to the zipper pulls.)









Cheers!

12
Hi there,

Strange title... Well what I have in mind is, what tricks to you put into practice to get a smoother zipper usage. For instance, I'm always afraid that the sliders will get stuck on the stormflap edge, so I make it a bit larger but maybe you have other techniques?


Here are some things I like to do :

- Put piece of webbing at zipper's ends to help slide it


- Mainly for stormflap, I tend to always add a wrapping piece of fabric around zipper's ends so the sliders isn't stuck under the flap when opened completely. It also prevent the zipper chain to add thickness to the base seam since you only sew 2 layers of fabric instead of the zipper chain itself.


- And last thing I sometimes slant the ends of the stormflap, it has the same effect as above, sliders don't get stuck under it, and allows the stormflap to open more easily.



Feel free to add your tips and tricks here :)

Cheers!

13
Packs and bags / Tiny backpack
« on: April 26, 2015, 09:48:09 AM »
Hi there!

Here's the last backpack I made today. This one is really small, around 7 liters (~430 cubic inches), 40h x 18w x 10d cm. Nothing really special to say about it, it's made out of litelok, which makes it really light. #9 YKK chain and Ideal sliders from GSI, which slides perfectly smoothly btw.




Cheers
Remi

14
Hi,

I have only one walking foot machine so I screw/unscrew my binder attachment everytime I need it. I'm using the classic foot when doing it, still I have some trouble sometime when doing curves that are too tight, binding tends to go all the way under (I think it has been discused here and if I remember correctly that's because the part on the attachment where the binding slides is too large, I got that.)

Now I wanted to know if using binder foot (kind of large zipper foot) like the one on the picture below would help to get a cleaner binding job? Or of it's totally useless... Knowing I can't set up a special machine nor changing feed dog/needle plate everytime I have to bind something.



Thanks
Cheers!

15
Pouches / Admin pouch
« on: April 06, 2015, 12:47:50 PM »
Hi there!

Here are some admin pouches made for a friend.
Clamshell design, loop over pals on the front for patches. On the inside, one open compartment on the back, on top a zipped compartment for cards, and stuff you don't wanna lose, and again on top of it, pens, phone, and misc pocket with elastic. On the bottom there are 2 elastic for small stuff like a lighter. And on the front part there are 2 velcro compartment, one clear vinyl and another one underneath. Made out of 500d and #10 zipper for the outside, and 400d packcloth and #8 zipper for the inside.






Cheers!

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