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Messages - Misadventure Gear

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1
Materials science / Re: Multi function slider source
« on: June 16, 2019, 08:37:59 PM »
I assume you're talking about a sternum strap on a backpack. There are several examples on this page of sternum strap hardware, including ones made to slide on webbing or on piping.
http://www.duraflexgroup.com/product.aspx?categoryID=25&sort=backpacking

2
Introductions / Re: New to the forum, Shaw Concepts
« on: May 28, 2019, 10:45:21 AM »
Welcome aboard Devil Dog.....SFMF.

3
Concept, design, and engineering / Re: Box Pouch Feedback
« on: May 01, 2019, 12:45:29 PM »
I haven't seen your product, but did you take shrinkage into account? The more stitching, PALS, etc., that you put in it, the more it will shrink. I'll add 1/4" to 1/2" depending on the size of my base piece and how much I'm sewing it. It's always easier to trim to fit if needed, than to battle with a piece that's now 1/4" too small.

As for puckering, check this out ...https://www.coats.com/Guidance/Eliminating-Seam-Puckering

4
Materials science / Re: Semi rigid batting options?
« on: April 29, 2019, 11:45:25 PM »
Have you been to your local fabric store and checked out their heavy duty stabilizer fabric? It's made for exactly your purpose and comes in various levels of stiffness......

5
Workspace, tools, machinery, and manufacturing / Re: Presser Foot Size
« on: April 18, 2019, 12:15:03 AM »
For my Walking Foot machine, I have the stock center presser foot with the hole for the needle, plus for the rear walking foot, I have the standard double-toed foot. Same dimensions as Essal. I also have left and right single-toed zipper feet, which will let me set my edge guide right up to the inner foot to sew 1/8" in from the edge. I use these a lot!!! One of my machines has the spring loaded edge guide foot. It works, but I prefer a standard foot and swing-away fence over it. I also have a selection of cording or piping feet which are grooved on the bottom to accommodate sewing down piping. I've only rarely had need of these feet, but they have helped with some repairs. I've thought about including cording on some of my bags seams, but haven't pursued that yet.


6
Asset exchange / WTB: Digital Urban Cordura 2-3yds
« on: March 19, 2019, 11:02:46 AM »
I have a customer requesting a pack in digital Urban camo. I can find it in a poly cotton fabric, but not in cordura or similar material. In Cordura, I can get a woodland-style Urban camo, but he would prefer a pixilated print... Anyone with a few yards to spare, or other suggestions?

7
Materials science / Re: Foam for back-pack shoulder straps
« on: March 14, 2019, 10:55:20 PM »
You want 4lb or more. It's more dense and won't flatten out as much under weight. For prototypes and personal use I've sourced foam from Walmart camping sleep pads and yoga mats. One of my favorites for hip belts is a a dual density pad made by gluing together a 1/4" thick yoga mat and a blue foam sleep pad, then cutting to shape.

8
I'm still using my Tacsew T111 that I found used locally for $500 ten years ago. It's still my primary machine and has proven very reliable. If I had to replace it, I wouldn't have any trouble paying what SewingGold is asking for a new one. It works without a hiccup every time I sit down to sew.

In all the years, I only had one maintenance issue of note: one day, the head of the needle set screw broke off. While extracting the remains of the screw, I damaged (stripped) the needle bar. I ordered a needle bar for a Singer 111-155, and found it a bit longer but same diameter as the one from my Tacsew. I cut it shorter, swapped it in, and it worked just fine. Setting the timing was easy too, although the English translation of the manual is a joke.




9
Introductions / Re: New guy
« on: March 04, 2019, 03:44:22 PM »
Welcome aboard!!!

10
Materials science / Re: Sewing laminate
« on: February 19, 2019, 12:31:19 AM »
It's hard to say for sure, but assuming that's 1" Velcro, and what looks like 10 stitches per inch, I'd guess he had too many stitches in a small area. It looks like it tore at a bar tack made by going back and forth with a straight stitch machine. I use that kind of bar tack all the time, but I'm careful to only go over it 3 times (forward, reverse, forward). Can't really say how many times it was stitched over from that picture. Also 10+ SPI is a lot for tac gear. Usually it's sewn with 6-8 stitches per inch.

Honestly, I have limited experience sewing laminate .... But that's my guess.

11
I prewind lots of bobbins in various colors, and store them on a magnetic tool holder stuck to the upright on my thread stand.

12
Workspace, tools, machinery, and manufacturing / Re: Variable Tacker
« on: February 01, 2019, 02:48:29 PM »
Speaking strictly to the issue choosing a mechanical machine, over an electronic one, let me tell you about my recent machine purchase and the choices I made....

First of all, I live on an island in the middle of the Pacific. Any machine coming from the mainland will have an extra $300-500 in shipping. Not a deal breaker for the right machine, but always a consideration. After more than 10yrs of regular checks on my local Craigslist, an "exotic" came up....an electronic Juki LH-3188 Double Needle. I scrimped for a few weeks, and scraped together most of the asking price, and went to go see the machine a few days ago.  It was at a shop run by a guy who used to own a sewing factory in LA. He had a couple dozen industrials lined up and more under plastic tarps, including the one I was there to see. It wasn't set up to sew, but it had the control panel, needle positioner, thread cutter, all the fancy add-ons. Nearby, was a second LH-3188-G, in similar condition, but no electronic control panel, thread cutter or needle positioner. I quickly gravitated to the basic model, because I knew that I could maintain it myself pretty easily. The control panel in the other machine was probably more than a decade old already, and I didn't want to have to deal with aging electronics. Besides, I was already thinking of swapping out the clutch motor for a servo, so adding a needle positioner could be done at that time. I brought that basic machine home, and have spent the last few days getting it dialed in and getting to know her. She's a great machine, and I'm confident I made the right choice for me. Next, I'll be getting all the binders and folders to really make it sing.....

Am I making critical life support equipment? Not yet, but I'm contemplating making myself a tree saddle for bowhunting. It would be my fat behind depending on my stitching while 20ft up in a tree. Personally, I don't think I'll be turning out an inferior product just because it's not the top of the line model.

That said, he also showed me a Juki programmable electronic bartacker, that had my mouth watering. I offered a work trade, but he wasn't interested in parting with his Baby. He was having a hard enough time letting go of the machine I was buying.  ;) I told him to call me if he changes his mind.

I'm not arguing against electronic machines, but I feel you gotta make the choice based on both your needs and situation, while factoring in costs of the equipment, plus getting it set up and running the way you need it to. Sometimes, the latest, greatest isn't always the right choice.

13
Nice idea..... My K.I.S.S. solution is to wrap the tail of thread halfway around the bobbin and tug firmly. The thread will seat itself in between the other thread on the bobbin and hold tight. When it's time to load your bobbin case, simply drop it in as normal. Pulling out a tail for the top thread to grab will unseat it from the threads, and you're ready to go. Same technique will also work for cones of thread if you wrap it around the base where the thread meets the cone.

14
Materials science / Re: DCF/Cuben Fiber
« on: July 24, 2018, 07:29:53 PM »
I've not used it myself, but the DIY/MYOG sections of Whiteblaze and BackpackingLite forums will have some info for you. Use tape on dynema (cuben fiber) instead of sewing it. I'm looking forward to seeing what you make.

15


Also dont try to bind right angles. Its impossible without special machine (I mean, impossible to make it look good). Cut the binding tape on the corner, then bind another straight side, binding on top of the first tape. See some typical magazine pouches with external binding, bottom corners


Binding right angle corners isn't hard, or require a special machine. It just takes a few minutes to learn how, and a little practice.  To do it, when you approach the corner, continue 2 stitches past where you want to turn, towards the edge of the fabric and into the seam allowance. Then reverse 2.5 stitches, and stop the needle just as it's beginning to descend. Raise the foot.  Turn your work 90 degrees in the binder, and use a seam ripper or other sharp pointed tool to get the fold in the binding tape how you like it. With just a little practice, you'll find it doesn't take much fiddling at all. Plunge the needle to hold it all in place, lower the foot, and sew onwards.

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